Materials
Yarn: These examples are crocheted from:
Kartopu Amigurumi yarn (acrylic 51%, cotton 49%, 50g = 130m, color K551 –
turquoise);
YarnArt Jeans (cotton 55%, acrylic 45%, 50g = 160m, color 80 – light gray,
color 23 – peach);
Alize Cotton gold Hobby (cotton 55%, acrylic 45%, 50g = 165m, color 67 –
light beige).
You need one main color skein and half of skein for clothes.
Crochet hook: 2,5 mm, or in accordance with the yarn you use.
A little piece of a different color yarn or stitch marker.
Fiber filling.
А thick needle.
One pair of 7 mm black safety eyes.
20 cm of black embroidery thread for the muzzle (you can use black yarn).

Notes
✓ Work in continuous rounds, don’t join or turn if not instructed in the
pattern.
✓ Use a stitch marker (or a piece of yarn). Place it at the last (or first) stitch
of the row and always move it up when working to the last (or first) stitches of
the rows.
✓ When finishing ears, head and hands leave a long yarn tail (around 20
cm) which you can use for sewing.
✓ Fill the stuffing into the head, legs and hands while crocheting them, not
when you finished the part, fill the stuffing into the body and ears when you
finished it. Be sure that you fill the legs, arms and ears with the same amount
of fiberfill, so legs, arms and ears at the left and right side will have the same
shape

Abbreviations
rnd(s) – round(s)
mr – magic ring
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
st(s) – stitch(es)
FLO – front loop(s) only
BLO – back loop(s) only
ss – slip stitch
inc – 1 increase = 2 sc in the same st
dec – 1 decrease = 2 sc together
esc – extended single crochet
(…) *n – repeat n times
(n) – stitch count of the row

Head:
1: 6sc in mr (6)
2: 6inc (12)
3: (sc, inc)*6 (18)
4: (2sc, inc) *6 (24)
5: (3sc, inc) *6 (30)
6: (4sc, inc) *6 (36)
7: (5sc, inc) *6 (42)
8: (6sc, inc) *6 (48)

9: sc in each st around (48)
10: (15sc, inc) *3 (51)
11: sc in each st around (51)
12: (16sc, inc) *3 (54)
13-15: sc in each st around (54)
16: 12sc, (inc, sc)3, 18sc, (sc, inc)3, 12sc (60)
17-21: sc in each st around (60)

22: 13sc, (dec, sc)3, 18sc, (sc, dec)3, 11sc (54)
23: 4sc, (dec, 7sc)*5, dec, 3sc (48)
Place the eyes between rounds 17 and 18 leaving 9 sts between them (7
viewable sts). The eyes should be centered between the 2 sections of
increases of round 16.
24: 3sc, (dec, 6sc)5, dec, 3sc (42)
25: 2sc, (dec, 4sc)6, dec, 2sc (35)
26: 2sc, (dec, 3sc)6, dec, sc (28)
27: sc, (dec, 2sc)6, dec, sc (21)
28: 3sc, dec, (5sc, dec)*2, 2sc (18), ss to the next st.
Cut the yarn, leaving long yarntail for sewing.

Ears (2 details):
1: 6sc in mr (6)
2: (sc,inc)3 (9)
3: sc in each st around (9)
4: (2sc,inc)3 (12)
5: (3sc,inc)3 (15)
6: (4sc,inc)3 (18)
7: (5sc,inc)3 (21)
8: (6sc,inc)3 (24)

9-20: sc in each st around (24)
21: (10sc, dec)2 (22)
22: (9sc, dec)2 (20)
23: (8sc, dec)2 (18)
24: (7sc, dec)2 (16), ss to the next st.
Cut yarn leaving long yarntail for sewing. Fill the ears not much!
Flatten the ear with taking care to keep the last ss on the side of ear (like it
shown on photo). Fold the ears in half and make 4-5 stitches using needle to
consolidate such possition. Make the same with the second one. Sew ears on
the head 8sts apart in this position
Now embroider the muzzle.

Hands (2 details):
1: 6sc in mr (6)
2: 6inc (12)
3: (3sc, inc)*3 (15)
4-8: sc in each st around (15)
9: 5sc, dec, sc, dec, 5sc (13)
10: 4sc, 3dec, 3sc (10)
11-30:sc in each st around (10)
31: close the hand by crocheting two sides together: 5sc (if you have only 4sc
it is also ok).
Cut the yarn, leaving long yarntail for sewing.

Legs (2 details):
1: ch4, starting from the 2nd ch st crochet around the chain like: inc, sc, 3sc
in one st, sc, inc (9)
2: 2inc, sc, 3inc, sc, 2inc (16)
3: (sc, inc)2, sc, (sc, inc)3, sc, (sc, inc)2 (23)
4: (sc, inc, sc)2, sc, (sc, inc, sc)3, sc, (sc, inc, sc)2
(30)
5-8: sc in each st around (30)
9: 7sc, (dec, sc)6, 5sc (24)
10: 2dec, 4sc, 6dec, 4 (16)
11-12: sc in each st around (16), place marker in the last sc.
Turn your crocheting:
13: (3sc BLO in 1 st)16 (48)
Close the round with invisible finishing method to the
first st you have made in 13th round (or ss). Fasten
the thread, hide it inside the crocheting.

Connect the yarn of the main color in the st where you placed the marker. Start
crocheting from the next st.
13’: BLO: 3sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 3sc (14)
14-24: sc in each st around (14)
25: sc, inc, 12sc (15)
26-35: sc in each st around (15)
36: 3sc, inc, 11sc (16)
37-46: sc in each st around (16)
For first leg: ss in the next st, cut the yarn.
For second leg: stop after 46th rnd. Don’t cut the yarn!
Pull the loop on the hook longer, so that it does not bloom, or fix it with a marker.

Cloth (step 1):
We use extended single crochets to make this cloth. So in pattern for cloth (only for
cloth):
inc = ecs inc,= 2 esc in the same st
dec = ecs dec.= 2 esc together
Ch2 in the beginning of each round is a lifting chain = 1esc. So ss we make in the
second loop of ch2, not in first (if another not written).
Let’s start:
ch16, ss in first loop (16)
1: ch2, 7esc, inc, 7esc, esc in the same st where you
start ch2, ss (18)
2: ch2, 8esc, inc, 8esc, esc in the same st where you start ch2, ss (20)
3: ch2, 9esc, inc, 9esc, esc in the same st where you start ch2, ss (22)
You need two the same details. For first one – fasten off and cut the yarn. For
second – don’t cut the yarn, ch1, ss into the last esc of the first detail. Now we
connected two details together. Continue crocheting on first leg, then on
second

4: ch2, 22esc, inc (in chain between legs), 22 esc, inc (in the chain between
legs from the other side), ss (48)
5-8: ch2, 47esc, ss (48)
9: ch2, 9esc, dec, 22esc, dec, 12esc, ss (46)
10: ch2, 45esc, ss (46)
11: ch2, 9esc, dec, 10esc, dec, (9esc, dec)*2, ss (42)
12: ch2, 41esc, ss (42)
Now stop crocheting the cloth, but don’t cut the yarn.

Wear cloth on the legs in such way:
– lifting chains on the cloth should be at the back
– leg, that was crocheted first is left. So another leg with uncut yarn is right
one.

Body:
47: 8sc through both sides, ch4, 8sc through both sides (20), ch1 (lifting
chain)
48: 8sc FLO, inc, 2sc, inc, 8sc FLO, turn the crocheting, further crochet for
the back of the same row: 8sc FLO, inc, 2sc, inc, 8sc FLO (12)
49-54: sc in each st around (44)
Now it’s time to rejoin the yarn of main color, because it is difficult to crochet
when yarn goes through the trouser-leg. Сut the yarn, pull the yarn out of the
trouser-leg and join it again like you do when join new color, for example.
You can do this anytime you want, in any round of your bunny’s body. Even in
the middle of the round (like I do). Then continue crocheting.

55: (dec, 20sc)2 (42)
56: sc in each st around (42)
57: (dec, 19sc)2 (40)
58: sc in each st around (40)
59: (dec, 18sc)2 (38)
60: sc in each st around (38)
61: (dec, 17sc)2 (36)
62: sc in each st around (36)
63: 8sc, dec, (10sc, dec)2, 2sc (33)
64: sc in each st around (33)
65: 7sc, dec, (9sc, dec)2, 2sc (30)
66: sc in each st around (30)
67: 7sc, dec, (8sc, dec)2, sc (27)
68: sc in each st around (27)
69: (7sc, dec,)3 (24)
70: sc in each st around (24)
69: (2sc, dec,)*6 (18)
70: sc in each st around (18), ss.
Cut the yarn.
Now continue crocheting the cloth.

Cloth (step 2):
13: ch2, 2esc, dec, (5esc, dec)5, 2esc, ss (36)
14: ch2, 35esc, ss (36)
15: ch2, esc, dec, (4esc, dec)5, 2esc, ss (30)
16: ch2, 29esc, ss (30)
17: ch2, esc, dec, (3esc, dec)*5, esc, ss (24)

Sew the hands on each side of the body between rnds 70-71. Keep the
decreases of rnds 9-10 facing the body when sewing them.
18: ch2, 3esc, ch5 (skip 5 st on the cloth), 7esc, ch5 (skip 5st on the cloth),
3esc, ss (24)
19: ch2, esc, dec, 4esc in arc, esc, dec, 2esc, dec, 4esc in arc, esc, dec, ss
(18)

Turn your crocheting.
20: (ch2, 3esc in the same st), (4esc in each st)17, ss (72)
21: ch2, 2esc, inc, (3esc, inc)17, ss (90)
22: ch2, 3esc, inc, (4esc, inc)17, ss (108)
21: ch2, 4esc, inc, (5esc, inc)17, ss (126)
21: ch2, 5esc, inc, (6esc, inc)17, ss (144)
21: ch2, 6esc, inc, (7esc, inc)17, ss (162)
Fill the body. Sew the head to the body.
Also you may embroider knees over rnd 31 of each leg.

More Amigurumi Bunny İdeas

Materials.
• Yarn in different colors:
for the body: cotton in brown or beige
for the overall: cotton or merino in the
color of your choice
(exact materiallist see below)
• Crochet hook 2,5mm for the bunny
• Crochet hook 3mm for the overall
• black, pink and white embroidery thread for
the eyes and the nose
• Stuffing
• Yarn Needle for sewing and embroidering
eyes, nose and rainbow
• optional: yarn remains in 3 colors for the
embroidered rainbow
• optional: music box with the maximum size
of 5,5 cm x 4,8 cm (plus one ball or
wooden ring for the string to play)

Abbreviations:
sc single crochet
inc increase
dec decrease
sl st slip stitch
ch chain stitch
rnd round
r row
HS hook size
(…) …x repeat the instructions in the
brackets as indicated after the brackets

Bunny 1.
Organic cotton from Ecobebek (color Goat), 105m/50g,
HS 2,5mm. Used quantity approx. 100g (2 balls of yarn).
Alternative: any cotton minimum approx. 120m/50g
(e.g. Schachenmayr Catania)
Overall made with pure wool:
Merino yarn from KPC Yarn (color Caramel), 107m/50g,
HS 3mm (very loosely crocheted). Used quantity approx.
50g (1 ball of yarn).
Alternative: e.g. Merino yarn from Rico Design, Essentials
Merino DK

Bunny 2.
Organic cotton from Ecobebek (color Goat), 105m/50g,
HS 2,5mm. Used quantity approx. 100g (2 balls of yarn).
Alternative: any cotton minimum approx. 120m/50g
(e.g. Schachenmayr Catania)
Overall made with cotton:
Organic cotton from Babytoly (color Marigold), 105m/50g,
HS 3mm (regular crocheted). Used quantity approx. 50g (1
ball of yarn).
Alternative: e.g. Schachenmayr Catania

Bunny 3.
Organic cotton from Ecobebek (color Marple), 105m/50g,
HS 2,5mm. Used quantity approx. 100g (2 balls of yarn).
Alternative: any cotton minimum approx. 120m/50g
(e.g. Schachenmayr Catania)
Overall made with pure wool:
Merino yarn from KPC Yarn (color Wicker), 107m/50g,
HS 3mm (very loosely crocheted). Used quantity approx.
50g (1 ball of yarn).
Alternative: e.g. Merino yarn from Rico Design, Essentials
Merino DK

Head.
Worked in spiral rounds.
Rnd 1. 6 sc in a magic ring (6 sc)
Rnd 2. inc x6 (12 sc)
Rnd 3. (1 sc, inc) x6 (18 sc)
Rnd 4. (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sc)
Rnd 5. (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sc)
Rnd 6. (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sc)
Rnd 7. (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sc)
Rnd 8. (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sc)
Rnd 9. (7 sc, inc) x6 (54 sc)
Rnd 10. (8 sc, inc) x6 (60 sc)

Rnd 11. (9 sc, inc) x6 (66 sc)
Rnd 12. (10 sc, inc) x6 (72 sc)
Rnd 13.-25. 72 sc (13 rounds)
Rnd 26. (10 sc, dec) x6 (66 sc)
Rnd 27. (9 sc, dec) x6 (60 sc)
Rnd 28. (8 sc, dec) x6 (54 sc)
Rnd 29. (7 sc, dec) x6 (48 sc)
Rnd 30. (6 sc, dec) x6 (42 sc)
Rnd 31. (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sc)
Rnd 32. (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sc)
Rnd 33. (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sc)
End with 1 sl st and fasten off. Leave a long tail for
sewing the head onto the body. Stuff the head.

Legs (make 2) and Body.
First Leg.
Worked in spiral rounds. Don’t forget to stuff the legs with stuffing bit by bit. That way you‘ll avoid bumps. Fill as
firmly as possible.
Rnd 1. 6 sc in a magic ring (6 sc)
Rnd 2. inc x6 (12 sc)
Rnd 3. (1 sc, inc) x6 (18 sc)
Rnd 4.-35. 18 sc (32 rounds)
End with 1 sl st and fasten off. Sew the yarn end accurately.
Second Leg.
Crochet like the first leg but don’t fasten off. We will attach the first leg now.

Attaching the legs.
Rnd 36. Continue with 6 ch onto the second leg, take the first leg and attach it with 1 sc. Work 17 sc along the
leg, 6 sc into the chain, 18 sc along the second leg and 6 sc into the front loops of the chain. (48 sc)
Place your marker here. The new round begins now.
Rnd 37. (7 sc, inc) x6 (54 sc)
Rnd 38. (8 sc, inc) x6 (60 sc)
Rnd 39. (9 sc, inc) x6 (66 sc)
Rnd 40.-50. 66 sc (11 rounds)
Rnd 51. (9 sc, dec) x6 (60 sc)
Rnd 52. 60 sc
Don’t forget to stuff the body with stuffing bit by bit.
If you want to make Miro with a music box, you can put it into the half-finished body. Use a needle to bring out the
string from the music box between the legs. Put filling around the music box. You can fill the belly firmly. Don’t
place filling underneath the music box, so the stuffing can’t tangle the string and the music box can play without
disturbances.
Rnd 53. (8 sc, dec) x6 (54 sc)
Rnd 54. 54 sc
Rnd 55. (7 sc, dec) x6 (48 sc)
Rnd 56. 48 sc
Rnd 57. (6 sc, dec) x6 (42 sc)
Rnd 58. 42 sc
Rnd 59. (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sc)
Rnd 60. 36 sc
Rnd 61. (4, sc, dec) x6 (30 sc)
Rnd 62. 30 sc
Rnd 63. (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sc)
Rnd 64. 24 sc
Rnd 65. 12 sc plus 1 sl st (at the back). Fasten off and sew the yarn end accurately.

Arms (make 2).
Worked in spiral rounds.
Rnd 1. 7 sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2. inc x7 (14 sc)
Rnd 3.-22. 14 sc (20 rounds)
Don’t fill the arms.
Fold the opening of the arm and close it with 6 sc.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Ears (make 2).
Worked in spiral rounds
Rnd 1. 6 sc in a magic ing
Rnd 2. 6 sc
Rnd 3. inc x6 (12 sc)

Rnd 4. 12 sc
Rnd 5. (1 sc, inc) x6 (18 sc)
Rnd 6. (5 sc, inc) x3 (21 sc)
Rnd 7.-15. 21 sc (9 rounds)
Rnd 16. (5 sc, dec) x3 (18 sc)
Rnd 17. (1 sc, dec) x6 (12 sc)
End with 1 sl st and fasten off. Leave a long tail. Fold the ear in the middle and sew it together with 1 – 2 stitches.

Overall.
There are 3 ways to crochet the overall. The first one is worked with merino yarn, the second one is worked with
cotton (same weight as the bunny) and with the third one you can add flounces to the overall.
Version 1, Overall
Made with cotton from Babytoly, 105m/50g, HS 3mm:
The overall is worked in the same way as the legs and the connection to the body.

Pant Leg (2x)
Crochet a chain with 23 ch and close them to a circle with 1 sl st into the first ch.
Rnd 1. 1 ch (this is the first stitch of the next round), 22 sc into the other 22 ch
From here we work in spiral rounds.
Rnd 2. – 26. 23 sc (25 rounds)
End with 1 sl st and fasten off. Sew the yarn end accurately.
Crochet like the first pant leg but don’t fasten off. We will attach the first pant leg now.
Rnd 27. Continue with 4 ch onto the second pant leg, take the first pant leg and attach it with 1 sc. Work 22 sc
along the pant leg, 4 sc into the chain, 23 sc along the second leg and 4 sc into the front loops of the
chain. (54 sc)
Rnd 28.-37. 54 sc (10 rounds)
Rnd 38. (7 sc, dec) x6 (48 sc)
Rnd 39. + 35 sc so the work ends at right side of the back, end with 1 sl st and fasten off, sew the yarn end
accurately
The Bib
The bib is worked in rows.
Put the pants in front of you, you should count approx. 24 sc on the front. Count 7 sc from the right to the left.
Work the 1st sc into the 8th sc and then make another 11 sc.
R1.-R9. 12 sc, 1 ch, turn (9 rows)

Don’t fasten off. Put the overall onto the bunny, so you can figure out the length of the suspenders. Crochet
approx. 23 ch (the length depends on the yarn you use), put the suspenders over the arm and finish them
crossed on the back at the upper edge of the pants with 1 sl st. Crochet along the edge of the pants approx. 15 sc. Then crochet another 23 ch and cross them on the back over to the arm and finish them with 1 sl st into the
side of the bib. Fasten off and sew the yarn end accurately

Version 2, Overall
Made with merino yarn, 107m/50g, HS 3mm, loosely crocheted:
The overall is worked in the same way as the legs and the connection to the body.
Pant Leg (2x)
Crochet a chain with 23 ch and close them to a circle with 1 sl st into the first ch.
Rnd 1. 1 ch (this is the first stitch of the next round), 22 sc into the other 22 ch
From here we work in spiral rounds.
Rnd 2.-34. 23 sc (33 rounds)
End with 1 sl st and fasten off. Sew the yarn end accurately

Crochet like the first pant leg but don’t fasten off. We will attach the first pant leg now.
Rnd 35. Continue with 4 ch onto the second pant leg, take the first pant leg and attach it with 1 sc. Work 22 sc
along the pant leg, 4 sc into the chain, 23 sc along the second leg and 4 sc into the front loops of the
chain. (54 sc)
Rnd 36. (8 sc, inc) x6 (60 sc)
Rnd 37.-46. 60 sc (10 rounds)
Rnd 47. (8 sc, dec) x6 (54 sc)
Rnd 48. + 35 sc so the work ends at right side of the back, end with 1 sl st and fasten off, sew the yarn end
accurately
The Bib
The bib is worked in rows.
Put the pants in front of you, you should count approx. 27 sc on the front. Count 6 sc from the right to the left.
Work the 1st sc into the 7
th sc and then make another 14 sc.
R1.-R.10. 15 sc, 1 ch, turn (10 rows)
Don’t fasten off. Put the overall onto the bunny, so you can figure out the length of the suspenders. Crochet
approx. 26 ch (the length depends on the yarn you use), put the suspenders over the arm and finish them
crossed on the back at the upper edge of the pants with 1 sl st. Crochet along the edge of the pants approx. 15
sc. Then crochet another 26 ch and cross them on the back over to the arm and finish them with 1 sl st into the
side of the bib. Fasten off and sew the yarn end accurately.

Version 3, Overall with ruffles
Crochet the overall as shown in version 1 or 2. Work another row onto the bib, so that the overall rises up a little
higher. Work the suspenders as shown in the version 1 and 2. For the ruffles you have to crochet along the side
of the bib.

The amount of stitches doesn’t matter here. It’s important to increase the right amount of stitches in every row
though. Start the first row with a standing sc (start with the same beginning as you do for a chain, hold the loose
end of the yarn and crochet a normal sc in the first stitch) at the bottom right corner, as shown in the picture.
R1: increase every stitch -> approx. 12-14 inc (24-28 sc), 1 ch, turn,
R2: 24-28 inc (48-56 sc)
Fasten off and sew the yarn end accurately.
Repeat on the other side of the bib.

Finishing.
Sew the head onto the Body.
The sleeping eyes are embroidered between the 20th and 21st round and run over 5 stitches. Pins help you
sew the eyes symmetrically. Additionally I embroidered 3 lashes each. There are 9 stitches between both eyes.
For orientation the pictures on the next page will help you.
The open eyes are also embroidered using a thin black thread between the 21st and 24th row with a few
vertical stitches. Additionally you can add a small vertical stitch with white thread into the eye.

Place the little pink nose between the eyes and at the same level as the lower edge of the eye. Use a long pink
thread and embroider a horizontal line which runs over 3 – 4 stitches with a few stitches. Additionally you can
embroider a vertical line from the middle of the nose down about 4 rounds.
Sew the arms directly between the head and the body on each side. Sew the ears on the left and right side of
the head between the rounds 5 and 6.
You can add red cheeks with pink rouge (and a make-up brush) or wax crayons.

At the end you can embroider a rainbow onto the overall.
Use a pencil to draw the 3 rainbow stripes onto the overall.
After that you embroider the rainbow with the “backstitch” from the inside to the outside. You don’t have to work
super accurately. I think an irregular rainbow adds its charm. When you’re finished with embroidering you have to
sew the yarn ends at the back of the bib. After that you can put the overall onto the bunny.
You can also roll up the overall at the bottom of the legs. This looks super cute.