Tools & Materials:
— Yarn
Michelle:
— DK Light Worsted/8ply yarn Alize Alpaca
Royal (100 g/ 250 m) color #152 for the body;
— Fine/4ply yarn Alize Cotton Gold Tweed
(100 g/ 330 m) color #62 – for the top and
sandals;
— Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/ 160 m)
color #18 – for the shorts;
— Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/ 160 m)
color #67 for soloha headband and sandals;
— Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/ 160 m)
color #87 – for the bag and sandals;
— Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/ 160 m)
color #83 – for the cheeks;
— Fine/4ply yarn Alize Cotton Gold (100 g/
330 m) color #522 – for the ties.

Martin:
— DK Light Worsted/8ply yarn Alize Alpaca
Royal new (100 g/ 250 m) color #695 for the
body;
— Fine/4ply yarn Alize Cotton Gold (100 g/
330 m) color #26 – for the shorts and slippers;
— Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/ 160 m)
color #03 – for the T-short and slippers;
— Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/ 160 m)
color #87 for the T-shirt;
— Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/ 160 m)
color #07 – for the pompoms;
— Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/ 160 m)
color #71 – for the pompoms and ties;
— Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/ 160 m)
color #83 – for the cheeks.

— Hook size 2 mm
— Stuffing material – fiberfill
— Eyes size 7 mm
— Black cotton thread to embroider the nose and eyebrows
— Thick and thin needle for sewing pieces
— Scissors
— Sewing pins
— Stitch marker (can use a thread in a contrasting color)
— Buttons size 9 mm – 2 pcs.
— Button size 6 mm (for the soloha)
— Paper tape or adhesive plaster
— Wire
— White thread to embroider the whites of the eyes

The pattern does not contain crochet lessons and is designed for those
who have basic crochet skills. The difficulty level – intermediate.
The size of the finished toy when using the indicated materials is about
20-21 cm.

Abbreviations
MR – magic ring;
sc – single crochet;
sl st – slip stitch;
inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch);
dec – decrease (2 sc together in front loops);
3 sc inc – crochet 3 sc in one stitch;
ch – chain;

dc – double crochet;
dcinc – double crochet increase (2 dc in one stitch);
tr – treble crochet;
hdc – half double crochet;
hdcinc – half double crochet increase (2 hdc in one stitch);
Bobble st – crochet the indicated number of unfinished DC stitches in
one stitch with a common top;
(…) * N – work instruction in brackets N times;
(N) – number of stitches in a particular row/round

Head:
Crochet with the main yarn.
1 Rnd. 6 sc in a MR
2 Rnd. 6 inc (12)
3 Rnd. (1 sc, inc)6 (18)
4 Rnd. 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)5, 1 sc (24)
5 Rnd. (3 sc, inc)6 (30)

6 Rnd. 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)5, 2 sc (36)
7 Rnd. (5 sc, inc)6 (42)
8 Rnd. 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)5, 3 sc (48)
9 Rnd. (7 sc, inc)6 (54)
10 Rnd. 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc)5, 4 sc (60)
11-22 Rnds. 60 sc (12 rounds)

23 Rnd. 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec)5, 4 sc (54)
24 Rnd. (7 sc, dec)6 (48)
25 Rnd. 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)5, 3 sc (42)
26 Rnd. (5 sc, dec)6 (36)
27 Rnd. 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)5, 2 sc (30)
28 Rnd. (3 sc, dec)6 (24)
Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Stuff the
head tightly with fiberfill.

Ears (make 2):
Do not stuff.
Crochet with the main yarn.
1 Rnd. 6 sc in a MR
2 Rnd. 6 inc (12)
3 Rnd. (3 sc, inc)3 (15)
4 Rnd. 15 sc
5 Rnd. (3 sc, dec)3 (12)
Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a long
end for sewing pieces

Arms (make 2):
Prepare 2 pieces of wire 20 cm long in advance, bend one end, as per the
photo, and wrap it with paper tape or adhesive plaster
Right arm. Crochet with the main yarn.
1 Rnd. 6 sc in a MR
2 Rnd. 6 inc (12)
3 Rnd. (3 sc, inc)*3 (15)
4 Rnd. 15 sc

5 Rnd. 4-dc Bobble st, 14 sc (15)
6 Rnd. dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc (13)
7 Rnd. dec, 5 sc, dec, 4 sc (11)
Insert a wire into the arm and stuff it with fiberfill. Continue crocheting
the arm, stuffing as you go. Do not stuff the upper arm.
8-26 Rnds. 11 sc (19 rounds)
Crochet 2 extra sc (you may have a different number of stitches) so that
the thumb is on the side, when flatten the arm in half.
Fasten off and cut the yarn, hide the ends inside.

Crochet the left arm in the same
way, except round 5:
5 Rnd. 7 sc, 4-dc Bobble st, 7 sc (15)

Muzzle:
Crochet with the main yarn.
1 Rnd. 6 sc in a MR
2 Rnd. 6 inc (12)
3 Rnd. 2 sc, (3 sc inc)2, 4 sc, (3 sc inc)2,
2 sc (20)
4 Rnd. 4 sc, 3 inc, 7 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc (26)
5-6 Rnds. 26 sc
Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a
long end for sewing pieces.

Cheeks (make 2):
Crochet with pink yarn.
1 Rnd. 6 sc in a MR
Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a
long end for sewing pieces

Legs & Body:
Crochet with the main yarn. Stuff tightly as you go.
Ch6.
1 Rnd. start on the second chain from
the hook: 4 sc, 3 sc in the last chain, on
the other side of the chain: 3 sc, inc (12)
2 Rnd. inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18)
3 Rnd. 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc)3, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc)2 (24)
4 Rnd. 2 sc, inc, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc)3, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc)2 (30)

5-7 Rnds. 30 sc (3 rounds)
8 Rnd. 6 sc, (dec, 1 sc)6, 6 sc (24)
9 Rnd. 5 sc, 6 dec, 7 sc (18)
10 Rnd. 6 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc (16)
11-14 Rnds. 16 sc (4 rounds)
15 Rnd. (3 sc, inc)4 (20)
16-17 Rnds. 20 sc (2 rounds)

Crochet a few extra sc so that the marker is on the side (I have 5 sc).
The legs should look at each other. Finish crocheting with sl st, fasten off
and cut the yarn, hide the ends inside.

Crochet the second leg in the same way as the first, only after Rnd 17 work
a few extra sc (I have 13 sc). Do not cut the yarn, but continue to crochet
the body. Stuff with fiberfill as you go.

18 Rnd. ch6 from the second leg, join the first leg with sl st, in the next
stitch after sl st on the first leg and place a marker (make sure that the legs
look at each other). Next, 20 sc on the first leg, 6 sc on the chain, 20 sc on
the second leg, 6 sc on the chain (52)

19 Rnd. 20 sc, (1 sc, inc)3, 20 sc, (1 sc, inc)3 (58)
20 Rnd. 9 sc, inc, 28 sc, inc, 19 sc (60)
21 Rnd. (9 sc, inc)6 (66)
22 – 31 Rnds. 66 sc (10 rounds)
32 Rnd. (20 sc, dec)3 (63)
33 Rnd. (19 sc, dec)3 (60)
34-35 Rnds. 60 sc (2 rounds)
36 Rnd. (18 sc, dec)3 (57)
37 Rnd. (17 sc, dec)3 (54)

38 Rnd. 54 sc
39 Rnd. (7 sc, dec)6 (48)
40 Rnd. 48 sc
41 Rnd. (6 sc, dec)6 (42)
42-43 Rnds. 42 sc (2 rounds)
Stuff tightly as you go.
44 Rnd. (5 sc, dec)6 (36)
45 Rnd. (4 sc, dec)*6 (30)
In the next round, join the arms.
Make sure that they are
symmetrical, you may have a
different distribution of stitches.

46 Rnd. 6 sc on the body, 5 sc on the inner part of the arm and body,
10 sc on the body, 5 sc on the inner part of the arm and body, 4 sc on
the body (30)
47 Rnd. 6 sc on the body, (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) on the outer part of the arm,
10 sc on the body, (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) on the outer part of the arm, 4 sc on
the body (30)
Connect the two ends of the wire together and wrap them with paper
tape or adhesive plaster.
48 Rnd. (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
49 Rnd. 24 sc
Crochet a few extra sc to finish on the side.
Fasten off and cut the yarn, hide the ends inside

Tail:
Crochet with the main yarn
Do not stuff.
1 Rnd. 6 sc in a MR
2 Rnd. 6 inc (12)
3 Rnd. 6 dec (6)
Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving
a long end for sewing pieces.

Decoration & Assembly:
Decorate the head. Fix the muzzle to the head between rounds 17 and 28
with pins and sew as shown in the photo. Stuff with fiberfill in the
process.

Glue the eyes between rounds 18
and 19, the distance between them
is 8 sc (visible distance). I used
safety eyes. First, use a sushi stick
to make holes in the places where
the eyes are attached, then use a
hot glue gun to apply a little hot
glue to the holes and insert the legs
of the eyes. If desired, you can preinsert the safety eyes and secure
them with washers.

Sew the nose with a black cotton thread between rounds 5 and 6 of the
muzzle. Nose width 3 sc. Make 2 horizontal stitches, then wrap the nose
with vertical stitches with the same thread, inserting the needle from the
bottom up. Wind the thread around stitches until you reach the desired
thickness. Make a vertical stitch from the nose down (6-7 rounds long).

Make eyes needle sculpting,
focusing on the photo. Insert the
needle with the thread through
the base of the head and exit it
through point 1. Then insert the
needle into point 2 and exit it
through the base of the head.
Pull both threads and tie a knot.
For strength, repeat the
tightening.

Similarly, tighten the second eye, but in this case, exit the needle and
thread through the base of the head at point 4. Then insert the needle
into point 3 and exit it again through the base. Pull both threads and tie
a knot. For strength, repeat the tightening.

Embroider the eyebrows with a black thread in round 15, the distance
between them is 10 sc, the width is 2 sc. Then embroider the eyelids
with a black thread.

Using a white thread, make stitches near the eyes to make the look more
expressive.
Fix the ears with pins on the sides of the head between rounds 8 and 15
and sew them on.
Exit all the extra threads through the base of the head, tie knots and cut
Fix the cheeks with pins between rounds 19 and 22 and sew them on.
Fix the head to the body with pins and start sewing in a circle. When a
small hole remains, add fiberfill between the head and neck, then sew to
the end.
Sew the tail in the middle of the back between rounds 27 and 30
Your bear is ready!
Now let’s start crocheting clothes

Top for Michelle:
Crochet with light beige color. Work in rows.
Finish each row with 1 turning chain and start a new row from the
second stitch on the hook. Work from the bottom up. After you crochet
the first two rows, try on the workpiece on the bear. If it is small or large,
change the hook size accordingly.
Ch70 + 1 turning chain.
1-2 Rows. 70 sc (2 rows)
3 Row. (dec, 5 sc)10 (60)
4-6 Rows. 60 sc (3 rows)
7 Row. (4 sc, dec)10 (50)
8-9 Rows. 50 sc (2 rows)

In the next row crochet the
straps.
10 Rnd. 8 sc, ch12, skip 9 sc, 16 sc,
ch12, skip 9 sc, 8 sc (56)
11 Rnd. on the main part 8 sc, on
the strap: (dcinc, 3 dc in one
chain)6, on the main part 16 sc, on the strap: (dcinc, 3 dc in one chain)6, 8 sc (92)

Next, crochet around the sides, the hem and form button loops.
-on the first side: 11 sl st, 2 turning chains
-on the hem from the 3rd stitch: (3 dc in one stitch)*70, 2 turning chains (210)
Make button loops in the next row (if you have a different button size,
adjust the size of the button loops yourself).
on the second side: 2 sl st, ch4, skip 1 stitch, 6 sl st, ch4, skip 1 stitch, sl st (17)
Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave in the ends. Sew on buttons.

T-shirt for Martin:
For the photo of the process, I used black and white yarn. In the main
photo, Martin is wearing a cream and beige T-shirt. You can use any
option you like. Work in rows. Finish each row with 1 turning chain and
start a new row from the second stitch on the hook. Work from the
bottom up. After you crochet the first 6-7 rows, try on the workpiece on
the bear. If it is small or large, change the hook size accordingly.

Ch36 + 1 turning chain
1 Row. 36 sc
2 Row. (1 sc, inc)18 (54)
Change color when crocheting the last stitch.
3-4 Rows. 54 sc (2 rows), change color
5 Row. 54 sc 6 Row. (8 sc, inc)6 (60), change color
Form sleeves in the next row.

7 Row. 10 sc, ch5, skip 10 sc, 20 sc, ch 5, skip 10 sc, 10 sc (50)
8 Row. 50 sc, change color
9 Row. (4 sc, inc)10 (60)
10 Row. 60 sc, change color
11 Row. (inc, 5 sc)10 (70)
12 Row. 70 sc, change color
13 Row. 70 sc
Next, crochet around the sides and form button loops (if you have a
different button size, adjust the size of the button loops yourself).

on the first side: 3 sc, ch4, skip 1 stitch, 6 sc, ch4, skip 1 stitch, 2 dc (19)
on the neckline: 36 sl st (36)
on the second side: 13 sc (13)
Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave in the ends. Sew on buttons.

Shorts:
Crochet with pink yarn. Work in rounds. Finish each round with sl st and
start with ch2. Work from the bottom up.
Ch25, connect in a circle with sl st, ch2
1st pant leg.
1-2 Rnds. 25 sc (2 rounds)
Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave
in the ends.
Crochet the 2nd pant leg in the
same way, do not cut the yarn.
From the second leg, ch2 and
attach to the first leg with sl st,
place a marker (there will be the
beginning of the round), ch2.
3 Rnd. 25 sc on the first leg, 1 dc
into ch in the previous round (to
prevent gaps), 2 dcinc on the chain,
25 dc on the second leg, 1 dc into
ch in the previous round, 2 dcinc
on the chain (60)

4-7 Rnds. 60 dc (4 rounds)
Leave a hole for the tail in the next round.
8 Rnd. 57 dc, ch3, skip 3 stitches, sl st, ch1 (60)
9 Rnd. 60 dc
10 Rnd. 60 sc in back loops
11 Rnd. 60 sc
Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave in the ends.

Ties for shorts.
Attach the mint yarn to round 9 and work in front loops. Make sure that
the ties are located in front of the shorts, in the middle. You may need
to adjust their location yourself.
1 Row. 32 sl st, ch30, from the second chain on the hook: 29 sl st, sl st
into the same loop on the shorts, 2 sl st, ch30, from the second chain on
the hook: 29 sl st, sl st into the same loop on the shorts, 26 sl st
Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave in the ends.
Shorts for Martin are crocheted in the same way. If desired, the ties can
be made a little shorter.

Sandals for Michelle (make 2):
Sole.
Crochet with beige yarn. Work in rounds. Finish each round with sl st
and start with ch1.
1 Rnd. ch6, start in the second chain from the hook: hdcinc, 3 hdc,
4 hdc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 3 hdc, hdcinc (14)
2 Rnd. 2 hdcinc, 3 hdc, 4 hdcinc, 3 hdc, 2 hdcinc (22)
3 Rnd. (hdc, hdcinc)2, 3 hdc, (hdc, hdcinc)4, 3 hdc, (hdc, hdcinc)*2 (30)
Change color to light beige when crocheting the last stitch. Fasten off
and cut the beige yarn, weave in the ends. Next, work around with sl st.
4 Rnd. 30 sl st
Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave in the ends.

Sandal straps. Crochet with yellow
yarn.
On the wrong side of the sole, mark
points 1, 2, 3, 4 as shown in the
photo. The distance between points
1 and 2 is 4 stitches, between points
1 and 3 – 10 stitches, between points
3 and 4 – 4 stitches, between points
2 and 4 – 8 stitches.
Attach the thread to point 2 in both loops, as shown in the photo.
Ch18, then attach the chain to point 3, also in both loops, as in the photo.
Work 18 sl st on the chain, returning to point 2.
Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave in the ends.
Crochet the second strap in the same way, but you need to attach the
yarn first to point 4, then to point 1 and back to point 4

Slippers for Martin (make 2):
Slippers are crocheted in the same way as sandals for Michelle, except
for the straps.
Crochet the sole with dark
brown yarn and crochet around
with beige yarn with sl st.
Top part. Crochet with light beige
yarn. Ch18 + 1 turning chain. Leave
the yarn end about 15 cm long at the
beginning. Work in rows, finish each
row with – 1 turning chain and start a
new row from the second stitch on
the hook.
1-2 Rows. 18 sc (2 rows)
Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a
long end for sewing.
Fix the upper part of the slippers to the sole with pins, as shown in the
photo, and sew. Fix the threads and weave in the ends.

Bag for Michelle:
Crochet with beige yarn.
Ch10.
1 Rnd. Start in the second chain from the hook: inc, 7 sc, 4 sc in the last
chain, on the other side of the chain: 7 sc, inc (22)
2 Rnd. 2 inc, 7 sc, 4 inc, 7 sc, 2 inc (30)
3 Rnd. 30 sc in back loops
4-11 Rnds. 30 sc (8 rounds)
Next, crochet the flap on only one
side of the bag in rows, finish each
row with – 1 turning chain and start
a new row from the second stitch
on the hook.
12-16 Rows. 14 sc (5 rows)
In the next row, make a button loop (if you have a different button size,
adjust the size of the button loops yourself).
17 Row. 7 sc, ch3, 7 sc (17)

Without cutting the yarn, work on one side of the flap 6 sl st, then sl st in
the first stitch of round 11 of the bag.
Without cutting the yarn, make the handle of the bag. Ch55, then sl st in
the stitch 16 in round 11 of the bag.
And then work on the other side of the flap 6 sl st. Fasten off and cut the
yarn, weave in the ends.
Using a needle with a light beige thread, make a decorative seam as in
the photo. Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave in the ends. Sew on a
button.

Soloha headband for Michelle:
Crochet with yellow yarn.
Ch90 + 1 turning chain.
1 Rnd. start in the second chain from the hook: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr, dc,
hdc, sc, 72 sl st, sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr, dc, hdc, sc, sl st (90)
2 Rnd. on the other side of the foundation chain: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr, dc,
hdc, sc, 72 sl st, sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr, dc, hdc, sc, sl st (90)
Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave in the ends.

Pompoms for Martin (make 2):
The diameter of the pompom should be about 2 cm. If you have a
special device for making pompoms, use it. I used the easiest way.
Take beige yarn.
-Holding the tip of the thread, wrap the yarn around 2 fingers until the
workpiece is quite thick. Cut the thread.
-Remove the workpiece from the fingers. Cut the thread about 40 cm
(this will be a tie around the neck) and tie the workpiece tightly in the
middle.
-Cut the threads on all sides along the fold.
-Trim the pompom with scissors, giving it a rounded shape.
Similarly, make the second brown pompom and tie them together.
You have done all the clothes for the bears Michelle and Martin!
Now you can dress them up!

More Amigurumi Bear İdeas

Materials
Yarn:
YarnArt DOLCE (100gr/120mt) – 762 brown (2 skeins)
You can use any velvet yarn with similar weight and any color
Sew-on eyes, d-10mm
Felt circles, d-12mm
18mm-15mm safety nose
Fiberfill – I use hollow fiber
Crochet hook – I used 3.0 (US D)
d-35mm disc and cotter pin
Strong thread for thread jointing
Long needle for thread jointing and scissors

Abbreviations:
MR – magic ring
SC – single crochet
SL ST – slip stitch
CH – chain
INC – increase; work 2 stitches into one stitch
DEC – decrease; work 2 stitches together
(…)*Х – repeat the instructions in parentheses Х times
(…) – a total amount of stitches in the round.
Shift stitches – crochet additional stitches in the round to keep
a marking thread even. In this pattern we use US terminology.

Arms:
Make 2 identical pieces. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1. 6sc in MR
Rnd 2. 6inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc, 1inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4-6. 18sc (3rounds)
Rnd 7. 2dec, 14sc (16)
Rnd 8. 2dec, 12sc (14)
Start to form our arms’ bending starting from this point. We are
going to alternate decreases and increases in every next round.
Rnd 9-15. 3sc, 1dec, 5sc, 1inc, 3sc (14) (7 rounds)
Rnd 16. 7sc, don’t work this round till the end
Rnd 17. 7dec (7)
Pull the opening closed, fasten off the thread and weave in the
thread tail.

Legs:
Make 2 identical pieces. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1. ch5, from the second ch from the hook: 1inc, 2sc, 3sc into 1
ch, 3sc (10)
Rnd 2. 2inc, 2sc, 3inc, 2sc, 1inc (16)
Rnd 3. (1inc, 1sc) 2, 2sc, (1inc, 1sc)3, 2sc, 1inc, 1sc (22)
Rnd 4. (1inc, 2sc) 2, 2sc, (1inc, 2sc)3, 2sc, 1inc, 2sc (28)
Rnd 5-6. 28sc (2rounds) +3sc, keep the marker even, it should be
located right in the middle of the foot.
Rnd 7. 8sc, 6dec, 8sc (22)
Rnd 8. 5sc, 6dec, 5sc (16)
Rnd 9–18. 16sc (10 rounds) – stuff the piece till the end.
Rnd 19. 8dec (8)
Pull the opening closed, fasten off the thread and weave in the
thread tail.

Head:
Stuff the piece as you go. I stuff very firmly!
Rnd 1. 6sc in MR
Rnd 2. 6Inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)6 (18)
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)6 (24)
Rnd 5. (3sc,inc)6 (30)
Rnd 6. (4sc,inc)6 (36)
Rnd 7. (5sc,inc)6 (42)
Rnd 8. (6sc,inc)6 (48)
Rnd 9. (7sc,inc)6 (54)
Rnd 10-17. 54sc (8rounds)
Rnd 18. (7sc,dec)6 (48)
Insert a disc with a cotter pin into the MR, stuff the head
Rnd 19. (6sc,dec)6 (42)
Rnd 20. (5sc,dec)6 (36)
Rnd 21. (4sc,dec)6 (30)
Rnd 22. (3sc,dec)6 (24)
Rnd 23. (2sc,dec)6 (18)
Rnd 24. (1sc,dec)6 (12)
Rnd 25. 6dec
Pull the opening closed, fasten off the thread and weave in
the thread tail.

Body:
Stuff the piece as you go; stuff firmly. Pay special
attention to the neck area and to the belly.
Rnd 1. 6sc in MR
Rnd 2. 6Inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)6 (18)
Rnd 4. (2sc,inc)6 (24)
Rnd 5. 24 sc into back loops only
Rnd 6. 24sc
Choose a cotter pin which fits the neck size.
It should be pushed closely to the neck.
Rnd 7. (3sc,inc)6 (30)
Rnd 8-9. 30sc
Rnd 10.(4sc,inc)6 (36)
Rnd 11. 36sc
At this stage we are going to attach the head to the body.
Insert the cotter pin ends from the head into the body and secure
them. If you don’t use a cotter pin, then just sew the head.
Rnd 12. (5sc,inc)6 (42)
Rnd 13. 42sc
Rnd 14. 18sc, (1inc, 1sc)3, 18sc (45)
Rnd 15. 45sc
Rnd 16. 18sc, (1inc, 3sc)2, 1inc, 18sc (48)
Rnd 17-20. 48sc (4 rounds)
Rnd 21. 18sc, (1dec, 3sc)2, 1dec, 18sc (45)
Rnd 22. 18sc, (1dec, 1sc)3, 18sc (42)
Rnd 23. (5sc,dec)6 (36)
Rnd 24. (4sc,dec)6 (30)
Rnd 25. (3sc,dec)6 (24)
Rnd 26. (2sc,dec)6 (18)
Rnd 27. (1sc,dec)6 (12)
Rnd 28. 6dec
Stuff the piece till the end. Fasten off the thread,
cut the tail and weave in.

Ears:
Make two identical pieces.
Rnd 1. 6sc in MR
Rnd 2. 6inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc, 1inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4-5. 18sc (2 rounds)
Cut the thread.

Muzzle:
Rnd 1. ch4, from the second ch from the hook: 1inc, 1sc, 3sc into
the first ch, 2sc (8)
Rnd 2. 2inc, 1sc, 3inc, 1sc, 1inc (14)
Rnd 3. (1inc, 1sc)2, 1sc, (1inc, 1sc)3, 1sc, 1inc, 1sc (20)
Rnd 4. (1inc, 2sc)2, 1sc, (1inc, 2sc)3, 1sc, 1inc, 2sc (26)
Rnd 5. 26sc
Rnd 6. 16sc – don’t work this round till the end
Cut the thread. Step two rounds from the edge. Attach the
nose exactly in the middle.

Tail:
Rnd 1. 6sc in MR
Rnd 2. 6inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc, 1inc)6 (18)
Rnd 4-5. 18sc (2 rounds)
Rnd 6. (7sc, 1dec)2 (16)
Cut the thread.

Assembly and details:
Fix the muzzle on the head with pins between the rounds 15
and 22. Step 5 rounds from the head center and fix the ears.
Make sure that all the pieces are located symmetrically. Sew the
fixed pieces. Sew the muzzle, having stuffed it beforehand. I
make a needle sculpting for the muzzle area additionally to make
the more snub-nosed shape. For this insert the needle into the
muzzle center into the lowest point 1 leaving a tail, pull it out from
the p2 near the left eye. Make a stitch across the top edge of the
muzzle and reinsert the needle into the p3 near the right eye, pull
out from the lowest point 1, where it was first inserted. Pull the
thread ends and tie a knot, weave in the thread tails.

Mark the points, where the eyes and the eyebrows will be
located. The eyes are located in the round 15; the distance
between them is 8 stitches.
Sew the eyes, pull them slightly inwards. For this insert the
needle into the head back, pull out from the point where the first
eye will be located, run through the eye and return to the same
point, where the needle was inserted. Pull the thread ends, making
the eye to be sunk into the head. Secure the thread ends. Repeat
the same steps with the second eye. Embroider the eyebrows.

Thread jointing for the limbs:
Sew the limbs to the body using a thread jointing.
Mark the points between the rounds 7 and 8 where the arms
will be located with pins.
Fix the arms to the body sides at the level of rounds 7 and 8.
Check and make sure we are fully satisfied with their location.
Watch for the body proportions, the belly should be located exactly
at the front center. Attach the arms to the sides in the way that
the belly is not shifted.
Sew the arms: Insert the needle into the body and pull it out
from the opposite side. Leave a thread tail; we will use it then to
secure the jointing. Run the needle through the arm. Return to the
same point, where the thread goes from, run through the arm again,
pulling the needle out stepping one stitch.

Run the needle through the body again. The needle should be
inserted stepping one stitch from the point from where it went out
before, and return to the opposite side, where we have the thread
tail left. Now we have the thread tails on the same side, pull them
so the arm is pushed to the body. Run the needle through the
second arm, return to the same point where we went out before,
and pull out stepping one stitch. Pull the thread tails again to push
the arms closely to the body and make a pair of knots.

Repeat all the steps two more times. Make sure the threaded
needle goes through the same points on the body; it should enter
and exit from the same openings. Fasten off the thread securely;
weave in the tails inside of the body.
Attach the legs in the same way. Count 7 rounds from the
lower point and mark the points on the sides in the way that the
belly was facing forward.

Check if the legs are located in the right way: the toy should
sit straight and shouldn’t lean over. Sew the legs.
Sew the tail, having stuffed it slightly. The tail mustn’t
interfere with the bear sitting.

More Amigurumi Bear İdeas

Materials
Cotton yarn, light blue, brown, dark brown,
cream, white, green, red
Crochet needle No. 6/0 (3.25 mm.)
Synthetic fiber
Bead eyes 8 mm.
Thatch for the bride’s head veil
Blush on cheeks

Abbreviations
Mr – magic ring
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Sl – slip stitch
INC – increase
DEC – decrease
Sc3sti – sc increase by 3 more stitches
Dc3sti – dc increase by 3 more stitches
Dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
Turn – turn over the work piece
DCinc – doule crochet increase
DCdec – doule crochet reduce
BLO – back loops only
FLO – front loops only

Head / Cotton yarn color : brown.
Row 1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
Row 2: 6 inc (12)
Row 3: (1 sc, inc)6 (18)
Row 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)5, 1 sc (24)
Row 5: (inc, 3 sc)6 (30)
Row 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)5, 2 sc (36)
Row 7: (inc, 5 sc)6 (42)
Row 8: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)5, 3 sc (48)
Row 9: 48 sc (48)
Row 10: (inc, 7 sc)6 (54)
Row 11: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc)5, 4 sc (60)
Row 12: (inc, 9 sc)6 (66)
Row 13: 5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc)5, 5 sc (72)
Rows 14-27 [14 rounds]: 72 sc (72)
Row 28: 5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec)5, 5 sc (66)
Row 29: 66 sc (66)
Row 30: (dec, 9 sc)6 (60)
Row 31: 4sc, dec, (8 sc, dec)5, 4 sc (54)
Row 32: (dec, 7 sc)6 (48)
Row 33: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)5, 3 sc (42)
Row 34: (dec, 5 sc)6 (36)
Row 35: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)5, 2 sc (30)
Row 36: (dec, 3 sc)6 (24)
Row 37: 1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)5, 1 sc (18)
Row 38: (dec, 1 sc)6 (12)
Row 39: 6 dec, sl (6) | Remaining yarn for sew.

Nose / Cotton yarn color : brown
Row 1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
Row 2: 6 inc (12)
Row 3: (1 sc, inc)6 (18)
Row 4: (2 sc, inc)6 (24)
Row 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
Row 6: 30 sc (30)
Row 7: 30 sc, sl (30)
| Remaining yarn for sew.

Ears / Cotton yarn color : brown
Row 1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
Row 2: 6 inc (12)
Row 3: (1 sc, inc)6 (18)
Row 4: (2 sc, inc)6 (24)
Rows 5-7 [3 rounds]: 24 sc (24)
Row 8: 24 sc, sl (24)
| Remaining yarn for sew.

Sew to decorate the face.
Sew the nose rows 22-31.
Sew the eyes row 22.
Sew the ears rows 8-19
Sew the eyebrows rows 15-16.
Blush both cheeks.

Legs and body / Cotton yarn color : cream, brown, dark brown, light blue.
Left leg
Women use cream yarn | Men use dark brown yarn.
Start by chaining 6
Row 1: ch 1, 5 sc, Sc3sti, 4 sc, inc (6)
Row 2: inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc (12)
Row 3: 1 sc, inc, 4 sc, (1 sc, inc)3, 4 sc, (1 sc, inc)2 (18)
Row 4: 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, (2 sc, inc)3, 4 sc, (2 sc, inc)2 (18)
Rows 5-6 [2 rounds]: 32 sc (18)
Row 7: 6 sc, dec, (3 sc, dec)3, 6 sc, dec, 1 sc (27)
Row 8: 1 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)2, 4 sc, dec, 3 sc (27)
Woman changed brown yarn.
Row 9: Woman BLO 22 sc (27)
Row 10: 6 sc, dec, (1 sc, dec)*2, 8 sc (27)
Row 11: Man BLO 19 sc (19)
Rows 12-24 [13 rounds]: 19 sc (19)
Row 25: 13 sc, sl | When finished rest your left leg.
Then do the right leg.

Right leg
Rows 1-24 Do same the left leg.
Row 25: 4 sc, sc(Still do not have to collect.)
| Pin the needle into the stitch sl of the left leg,
take out the yarn. there will be 3 yarns on the
needle. next do dec (See picture below)

Row 26 : 38 sc (38)
Rows 27-31 [5 rounds]: 38 sc (38)
Row 32 : 38 sc (38)
Man changed light blue yarn.
Woman changed cream yarn.
Row 33 : 38 sc (38)
Row 34 : Woman BLO 38 sc (38)
Row 33-39 [7 rounds] : 38 sc (38)
Row 40 : 8 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 8 sc (36)
Row 41 : (7 sc, dec )4 (32)
Row 42 : 32 sc (32)
Row 43 : 3 sc, dec, ( 6 sc, dec )4, 3 sc (28)
Row 44 : 28 sc (28)
Woman changed brown yarn.
Row 45 : 28 sc (28)
Row 46 : ( 5 sc, dec )*4 (24)
Row 47 : 24 sc (24)
Row 48 : 24 sc, sl (24)

Skirt / Cotton Yarn Color : Cream
Begin do in the outer chain of row 33.
Row 1 : ch 3, 38 Dcinc, sl (76)
Row s 2-5 [4 rounds] : ch 3, 76 dc, sl (76)
Row 6 : ch 3, [ 3dc, Dcinc ]*19, sl (95)
Row 7 : ch 3, 95 dc, sl (95)
Row 8 : ch 3, BLO 95 dc, sl (95)
Row 9 : ch 3, 95 dc, sl (95)
Row 10 : ch 3, BLO 95 dc, sl (95)
Row s 11-12 [2 rounds] : ch 3, 95 dc, sl (95)

Floor lace three.
Row 13 : ch 3, [ (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc)Do in 1 stitch, Skip 1 stitch ]47, sl (188)
Row 14 : ch 3, [ (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc)Do in 1 stitch, Skip 1 stitch ]47 (Do in chain 2 of row 13), sl (188)
Row 15 : ch 3, [ (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc)Do in 1 stitch, Skip 1 stitch ]47 (Do in chain 2 of row 14), sl (282)

Floor lace two.
Begin do in the outer chain of row 9
Row 1 : ch 3, [ (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc)Do in 1 stitch, Skip 1 stitch ]47, sl (188)
Row 2 : ch 3, [ (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc)Do in 1 stitch, Skip 1 stitch ]47 (Do in chain 2 of row 1), sl (188)
Row 3 : ch 3, [ (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc)Do in 1 stitch, Skip 1 stitch ]47 (Do in chain 2 of row 2), sl (282)

Floor lace one.
Begin do in the outer chain of row 7
Row 1 : ch 3, [ (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc)Do in 1 stitch, Skip 1 stitch ]47, sl (188)
Row 2 : ch 3, [ (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc)Do in 1 stitch, Skip 1 stitch ]47 (Do in chain 2 of row 1), sl (188)
Row 3 : ch 3, [ (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc)Do in 1 stitch, Skip 1 stitch ]47 (Do in chain 2 of row 2), sl (282)

Women arm / Cotton yarn color : brown, white
Begin with white yarn.
Row 1 : 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
Row 2 : 6 inc (12)
Row 3 : (1 sc, inc)6 (18)
Row 4 : (2 sc, inc)6 (24)
Rows 5-6 [2 rounds]: 24 sc (24)
Row 7 : (2 sc, dec)6 (18)
Rows 8-10 [3 rounds] : 18 sc (18)
Row 11 : (4 sc, dec)3 (15)
Rows 12-13 [2 rounds]: 15 sc (15)
Changed brown yarn.
Row 14 : BLO 15 sc (15)
Rows 15-22 [8 rounds] : 15 sc (15)
Row 23 : (3 sc, dec)3 (12)
Row 24 : (2 sc, dec)3 (9)
Row 25 : (1 sc, dec)*3, sl (6)
Begin do in the outer chain of row 13.
[ ch 3, sc(Do in 2 stitch) ]*7 , sl

Sewing parts
Sew the arm rows 46-47
Sew the head to the body.

Men arm / Cotton yarn color : light blue, brown
Begin with brown yarn.
Row 1 : 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
Row 2 : 6 inc (12)
Row 3 : (1 sc, inc)6 (18)
Row 4 : (2 sc, inc)6 (24)
Rows 5-6 [2 rounds] : 24 sc (24)
Row 7 : (2 sc, dec)6 (18)
Changed light blue yarn.
Row 8 : 18 sc (18)
Row 9 : (4 sc, dec)3 (15)
Rows 10-22 [13 rounds] : 15 sc (15)
Row 23 :(1 sc, dec)*5 (10)
Row 24 : 5 dec, sl (5)

Men sleeves / Cotton yarn color : dark brown
Row 1 : 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
Row 2 : 6 inc (12)
Row 3 : (1 sc, inc)*6 (18)
Rows 4-19 [16 rounds] : 18 sc (18)
Row 20 : 18 sc, sl (18)

Men shirt / Cotton yarn color : dark brown
Start by chaining 40
Row 1 : ch 1, 40 sc (40)
Rows 2-5 [4 rounds] : ch 1 turn, 40 sc (40)
Row 6 : ch 1 turn, dec, 36 sc, dec (38)
Row 7 : ch 1 turn, 38 sc (38)
Row 8 : ch 1 turn, dec, 34 sc, dec (36)
Row 9 : ch 1 turn, 36 sc (36)
Row 10 : ch 1 turn, dec, 32 sc, dec (34)
Row 11 : ch 1 turn, 34 sc (34)
Row 12 : ch 1 turn, dec, 30 sc, dec (32)
Row 13 : ch 1 turn, 32 sc (32)
Row 14 : ch 1 turn, dec, 28 sc, dec (28)
Row 15: ch 1 turn, 30 sc (30)
Row 16 : ch 1 turn, dec, 26 sc, dec (28)
Row 17 : ch 1 turn, 28 sc (28)
Row 18 : ch 1 turn, dec, 24 sc, dec (28)
The next row do a loop on our left hand side.
Row 19 : ch 1, 17 sc, inc, 40 sc, inc, 43 sc, sl (104)
Row 20 : ch 1, 18 sc, inc, 40 sc, inc, 44 sc, sl (106 )
Row 21 : ch 1, BLO 12 sc, 7 sc, inc, 40 sc, inc, 7 sc, BLO 38 sc, sl (108)

Men bow / Cotton yarn color: red
Start by chaining 11
Row 1 : ch 1, 11 sc (11)
Rows 2-5 [4 rounds] : ch 1 turn, 11 sc (11)
Row 6 : ch 1 turn, 11 sc (11)

Sewing parts
Sew a shirt
Sew the head to the body.
Sew bows and buttons.

Bouquet / Cotton yarn color : white
Row 1 : 7 sc in a magic ring, sl (7)
Row 2 : BLO ch 3, (Dcinc)7, sl (14)
Row 3 : ch 3, (Dcinc)14, sl (28)
Row 4 : ch 3, 28 dc (28)
Row 5 : [ ch 3, sc(Do in 2 stitch) ]14
Bouquet base.
Begin do in the outer chain of row 1 ch 3, ( Dcinc )7, sl

Flower / Cotton yarn color : red
Start by chaining 5
[ ch 3, (5dc, sl)Do in 1 stitch ]5

Leaves / Cotton yarn color : green
Start by chaining 7, sl, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sl

Women bow / Cotton yarn color: blue
Start by chaining 21
Row 1 : sc 1, 21 sc (21)
Rows 2-9 [8 rounds] : sc 1 turn, 21 sc (21)
Row 10 : sc 1 turn, 21 sc (21)

Do a bridal veil
Cut 1 piece of size 1512 and 1 piece 128 size.
Cloth provided
sew forward
Sew a small piece to the head and sew a
large piece on top of a small piece.
Sew a bow to the head. and sew a bouquet of
flowers to the arms on both sides.

More Amigurumi Bear İdeas

MATERIALS:
ALIZE DIVA, 100g/350m/383yds
1.75mm (or 2mm)crochet hook
Fiberfill for stuffing
6mm black safety eyes

Head
Rnd1: 6sc in a Magic Ring (6)
Rnd2: inc 6 times (12)
Rnd3: |inc, sc in next st| x6 (18)
Rnd4: |inc, sc in next 2 st| x6 (24)
Rnd5: |inc, sc in next 3 st| x6 (30)
Rnd6: |inc, sc in next 4 st| x6 (36)
Rnd7: |inc, sc in next 5 st| x6 (42)
Rnd8: |inc, sc in next 6 st| x6 (48)
Rnd9: |inc, sc in next 7 st| x6 (54)
Rnd10: |inc, sc in next 8 st| x6 (60)
Rnd11-18: sc in all 60 st (60)
Rnd19: |sc in next 8 st, dec| x6 (54)
Rnd20: |sc in next 7 st, dec| x6 (48)
Rnd21: |sc in next 6 st, dec| x6 (42)
Rnd22: |sc in next 5 st, dec| x6 (36)
Rnd23: |sc in next 4 st, dec| x6 (30)
Rnd24: |sc in next 3 st, dec| x6 (24)
Rnd25: |sc in next 2 st, dec| x6 (18)
Attach the safety eyes between round 17 and 18 with an interspace of 12 stitches.
Stuff the head with fiberfill.

Legs (make 2)
Rnd1: 6sc in a Magic Ring (6)
Rnd2: inc 6 times (12)
Rnd3: |inc, sc in next st| x6 (18)
Rnd4-6: sc in all 18 st (18)
Slip st to 1st sc of previous rnd and fasten off (do not fasten off 2nd leg)

Body
Continue on from 2nd leg
Rnd 1: Ch 2 and sc in the 18st of the first leg, sc across other side of chain (as if working in the flat round), sc around
18 st of 2nd leg. (40)
Rnd2-10: sc in all 40 st (40)
Rnd11: |sc in next 18 st, dec| x2 (38)
Rnd12: sc in all 38 st (38)
Rnd13: |sc in next 17 st, dec| x2 (36)
Rnd14: sc in all 36 st (36)
Rnd15: |sc in next 4 st, dec| x6 (30)
Rnd16: sc in all 30 st (30)
Rnd17: |sc in next 3 st, dec| x6 (24)
Rnd18: sc in all 24 st (24)
Rnd19: |sc in next 2 st, dec| x6 (18)

Ear (make 2)
Rnd1: 6sc in a Magic Ring (6)
Rnd2: inc 6 times (12)
Rnd3: |inc, sc in next st| x6 (18)
Rnd4: |inc, sc in next 2 st| x6 (24)
Rnd5: |inc, sc in next 3 st| x6 (30)
Rnd6-7: sc in all 30 st (30)

Arms (make 2)
Rnd1: 6sc in a Magic Ring (6)
Rnd2: inc 6 times (12)
Rnd3-5: sc in all 12 st (12)
Rnd6: |sc in next 2 st, dec| (9)
Rnd7-12: sc in all 9 st (9)
Weave in ends.

Tail
Rnd1: 6sc in a Magic Ring (6)
Rnd2: inc 6 times (12)
Rnd3: sc in all 12 st (12)
Rnd4: |sc in next 2 st, dec| (6)
Rnd5: | dec x 6| (6)

Muzzle
Rnd1: 6sc in a Magic Ring (6)
Rnd2: inc 6 times (12)
Rnd3: |inc, sc in next st| x6 (18)
Rnd4: |inc, sc in next 2 st| x6 (24)
Rnd5-6: sc in all 24 st (24)

Vest
chain 36.
Rnd 1 – Single Crochet in the second chain from the hook. Continue to single crochet to the end (35 stitches)
Rnd2 – Chain 1 for your turning stitch, start this rnd in the second chain from the hook – 35 single crochet total
Rnd 3 – Repeat Rnd 2 (11 stitches)
Rnd 4 – – Chain 1 for your turning stitch, sc in next 5 st, chain 5, sc in next 15 st, sc in next 5 st (38)
Rnd 5-10 – Repeat Rnd 2 (38 stitches)
leave two long thread yarns in the beginning and in the end.
make a chain 35 of them.

More Amigurumi Bear İdeas

Materials:
• 2.5 mm crochet hook
• Soft yarn
I used Merino “Extrafine 120” from Schachenmayr) in light brown (104), cream (102), white
(101), red (131)
• Black embroidery thread
• Safety eyes 8.00 mm
• Stuffing
• Yarn needle
• Stitch marker
I used thin black thread

Abbreviations:
• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• inc – increase
• dec – decrease
• FLO – use only front loops
• BLO – use only black loop
• FO – fasten off

HEAD
Use cream (102) yarn.
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]
Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x6 [18]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]
Rnd 5: (inc, 3 sc) x6 [30]
Rnd 6-7: sc around [30], 2 rounds
Rnd 8: 2 sc, (inc, 4 sc) x5, inc, 2 sc [36]
Rnd 9-10: sc around [36], 2 rounds
Rnd 11: 4 sc, (inc, 5 sc) x5, inc, sc [42]
Change the yarn to light brown (104).
How to change the color of yarn:
With the two loops from the previous yarn
on the hook, wrap the new yarn
around the hook, then pull the new yarn
through the two loops of the stitch

Rnd 12: FLO (use only front loops): sc
around [42]
Rnd 13: (6 sc, inc) x6 [48]
Rnd 14: sc around [48]
Rnd 15: (inc, 7 sc) x6 [54]
Attach the safety eyes between rounds 11
and 12 with 20 stitches between.
• tip: skip 11 stitches from the beginning
(count the stitches of round 12), attach the first
eye, then skip next 20 stitches and attach
the second eye

Rnd 16-24: sc around [54], 9 rounds
Rnd 25: (dec, 7 sc) x6 [48]
Rnd 26: (dec, 6 sc) x6 [42]
Rnd 27: (dec, 5 sc) x6 [36]
Rnd 28: (dec, 4 sc) x6 [30]
Rnd 29: (dec, 3 sc) x6 [24]
Rnd 30: (dec, 2 sc) x6 [18]
Rnd 31: (dec, sc) x6 [12]
Stuff the head firmly

Invisibly finish off.
How to close the end of the round: with a
darning needle, insert the remaining yarn
through all the front loops of the stitches on
the last round. Pull all together at
once and sew to hide the yarn inside the
part you are working on

EARS (make 2)
Use light brown yarn.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]
Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x6 [18]
Rnd 4-6: sc around [18], 3 rounds
Don’t stuff the ears.
Fasten off.
Cut the yarn, leave a tail for sewing

BODY
Use light brown yarn.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]
Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x6 [18]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]
Rnd 5: (inc, 3 sc) x6 [30]
Rnd 6: 2 sc, (inc, 4 sc) x5, inc, 2 sc [36]
Rnd 7: 4 sc, (inc, 5 sc) x5, inc, sc [42]
Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 [48]
Rnd 9: (inc, 7 sc) x6 [54]
Rnd 10-13: sc around [54], 4 rounds
Rnd 14: (dec, 7 sc) x6 [48]
Rnd 15-17: sc around [48], 3 rounds
Rnd 18: (dec, 6 sc) x6 [42]
Rnd 19-20: sc around [42], 2 rounds
Rnd 21: (dec, 5 sc) x3, dec, 19 sc [38]
Rnd 22-23: sc around [38], 2 rounds
Rnd 24: (dec, 4 sc) x3, dec, 18 sc [34]
Rnd 25-26: sc around [34], 2 rounds
Rnd 27: (dec, 3 sc) x3, dec, 17 sc [30]
Rnd 28-29: sc around [30], 2 rounds
Rnd 30: (dec, 2 sc) x3, dec, 16 sc [26]
Rnd 31: sc around [26]
Stuff the body firmly
Fasten off.
Cut the yarn, leave a long tail for sewing.

ARMS (make 2)
Use light brown yarn.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]
Rnd 3-22: sc around [12], 20 rounds
Stuff the arms lightly.
Cut the yarn, leave a tail for sewing.

LEGS (make 2)
Use light brown yarn.
Ch 7. Stitches are worked around both sides
of the foundation chain.
Rnd 1: start in second chain from the hook:
inc in this stitch, 4 sc, 3 sc in last st.
Continue on the other side of the
foundation chain, 5 sc,

Rnd 2: 2 inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, inc [20]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x2, 4 sc, (sc, inc) x3, 5 sc, inc [26]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x2, 4 sc, (2 sc, inc) x3, 6 sc,
inc [32]
Rnd 5-10: sc around [32], 6 rounds
Rnd 11: 15 sc, 4 dec, 9 sc [28]
Rnd 12: 13 sc, 4 dec, 7 sc [24]
Rnd 13: 11 sc, 4 dec, 5 sc [20]
Start to stuff the leg firmly
Rnd 14: 9 sc, 4 dec, 3 sc [16]

Rnd 15-26: sc around [16], 12 rounds
Rnd 27: (dec, 2 sc) x4 [12]
Rnd 28: (dec, sc) x4 [8]
Stuff the leg, cut the yarn, leave a tail for
sewing.
Don’t stuff the end of the leg and don’t
close the opening
Fasten off.

ASSEMBLING:
Mark the position of the nose. It should be 2
sts above the magic ring and 6 sts wide.
Use the black thread, embroider the
nose, then bring the thread to 8 stitches
below the magic ring and tighten the thread
very well
In the same way, you should sculpt the
eyes. Start it from the start point of the
bottom of the head, then go to the eye and
come back to the start point
Tighten the thread very well. Repeat it with
second eye
Position the head to the body with the
rounded belly facing forward and the yarn
tail of the body on the right side.
Sew the body to the head
Sew the arms to the body between rounds
28 and 29
Sew the legs to the body on the line of the
magic ring
Sew the ears to the head between rounds
18 and 20 with 16 stitches between
• tip: make sure that your ears are placed
with 16 stitches between if placement is
out, it would be difficult to put on the hat

HAT
Use red (131) yarn.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 [9]
Rnd 3-5: sc around [9], 3 rounds
Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc) x3 [12]
Rnd 7-9: sc around [12], 3 rounds
Rnd 10: (3 sc, inc) x3 [15]
Rnd 11-13: sc around [15], 3 rounds
Rnd 14: (4 sc, inc) x3 [18]
Rnd 15-16: sc around [18], 2 rounds

Rnd 17: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]
Rnd 18: sc around [24]
Rnd 19: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]
Rnd 20: sc around [30]
Rnd 21: (4 sc, inc) x6 [36]
Rnd 22: sc around [36]
Rnd 23: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]
Rnd 24: sc around [42]
Rnd 25: (6 sc, inc) x6 [48]
Rnd 26: sc around [48]
Rnd 27: (7 sc, inc) x6 [54]
Rnd 28: sc around [54]
Rnd 29: (13 sc, inc, 12 sc, inc) x2 [58]
Rnd 30-35: sc around [58], 6 rounds
Rnd 36: 11 sc, ch 10, leave next 10 st
(for first ear), then insert your hook in next
st and crochet 16 sc, ch 10, leave
next 10 st (second ear), insert your hook in
next st, 11 sc,

Rnd 37-38: sc around [58], 2 rounds
Rnd 39: 58 sc, slst in first st [58]
Rnd 40: ch 1, BLO (use only back loops): 58
sc, slst in first st [58]
Rnd 41: ch 1, 58 sc [58]
Fasten off.
Turn out the hat with wrong side to outside
and fold the last two rounds up

OVERALLS
Use red (131) yarn.
Ch 37. Make sure that your chain is not
twisted.
Row 1: start in second chain from hook: 36
sc, turn [36]
Row 2: ch 1 (don’t count it as the first st), 6 sc,
inc, 5 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 6 sc, turn
[40]
Row 3: ch 1, (6 sc, inc) x2, 11 sc, inc, 6 sc,
inc, 7 sc, turn [44]
Row 4: ch 1, (7 sc, inc) x2, 12 sc, (inc, 7 sc)
x2, turn [48]
Row 5: ch 1, 7 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 13 sc, (inc, 8
sc) x2, turn, [52]

Row 6: ch 1, 8 sc, ch 5, leave 11 st
(for first arm), insert your hook in next st, 14 sc, ch 5, leave 11 st (second arm)
and crchet in next st, 8 sc, turn, [40]
Row 7: ch 1, 40 sc, turn [40]
Row 8: ch 1, (4 sc, inc) x8, turn [48]
Row 9: ch 1, 48 sc, slst in first stitch [48]
Now our two sides of the overalls are
connected and we will continue to crochet
in the round
Row 10: ch 1, work in back ridge loops: (inc, sc) x24, slst in first st,
[72]

Row 11-12: ch 1, 72 sc, slst in first st [72], 2
rows
Row 13: ch 1, red yarn: 2 sc, attach the
white yarn, (white yarn: 2 sc, red yarn: sc,
white yarn: 2 sc, red yarn: 3 sc) x8, white
yarn: 2 sc, red yarn: sc, white yarn: 2 sc, red
yarn: sc, slst in first st, [72]
• Tip: how to secure the yarn after changing
the color of yarn,
•Tip: give the tail of the previous yarn a nice
tug when changing yarn colors, to prevent

Row 16-23: ch 1, 72 sc, slst in first st [72], 8
rows
Row 24: ch 1, (dec, 7 sc) x8, slst in first st
[64]
Row 25-27: ch 1, 64 sc, slst in first st,
[64], 3 rows
In next row we will divide the overalls two
pant.
Row 28: ch 1, 32 sc, leaves next 32 stitches
(for second leg opening), turn your
crocheting and insert your hook in first
stitch, slst in this st [32]

Row 29-30: ch 1, 32 sc, slst in first st,
[32], 2 rows
Row 31: ch 1, 32 sc, change the yarn to
white, slst in first st [32]
Row 32: white yarn: ch 1, 32 sc, change the
yarn to red, slst in first st, [32]

Row 33: red yarn: ch 1, sc* in the space
(using the post of stitch) between stitches,
change the yarn to white, slst in first st, [32]
*Insert your hook from back to front
through the space between the single
crochet stitches. Yarn over,
complete the single crochet as usual.
Row 34: white yarn: ch 1, 32 sc, change the
yarn to red, slst in first st [32]
Row 33: red yarn: ch 1, sc* in the space, [32]
Fasten off.

Second opening for leg: lay the overalls so
that the leg opening is at the top and away
from your face. Then, attach the red yarn to
the very first stitch from the first leg
opening and make a starting chain.
Make sc in this stitch, sc in next 31 st and
slst in first st. Follow the pattern below:

Row 28: ch 1, 32 sc, slst in first st [32]
Row 29-30: ch 1, 32 sc, slst in first st [32], 2
rows
Row 31: ch 1, 32 sc, change the yarn to
white, slst in first st [32]
Row 32: white yarn: ch 1, 32 sc, change the
yarn to red, slst in first st [32]
Row 33: red yarn: ch 1, sc* in the space
between stitches, change the yarn to white,
slst in first st [32]
Row 34: white yarn: ch 1, 32 sc, change the
yarn to red, slst in first st [32]
Row 33: red yarn: ch 1, sc* in the space
between stitches [32]
Fasten off

Collar: lay the overalls so that the openings
are at the top and away from your face.
Attach the white yarn in stitch of first row, ch 4, skip next stitch, slst in next st
Repeat it (ch 4, skip next st, slst
in next st) 16 times more

Button: 7 sc in magic ring [7]
Invisible fasten off.
Sew the button on the front of the overalls
Sew the small button on the back side of the
overalls and make a little loop

To make Beth girl bear follow the head, body,
arms, ears pattern and assembling from page 2
to 7.
SHOE, SOCK and LEG (make 2)
Use red (131) yarn.
Ch 8. Stitches are worked around both sides
of the foundation chain.
Rnd 1: start in second chain from the hook:
inc in this stitch, 5 sc, 3 sc in last st.
Continue on the other side of the
foundation chain, 6 sc, slst in first st [16]
Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 inc, 5 sc, 3 inc, 5 sc, inc, slst in
first st [22]
Rnd 3: ch 1, (sc, inc) x2, 5 sc, (sc, inc) x3, 6
sc, inc, slst in first st [28]
Rnd 4: ch 1, (2 sc, inc) x2, 5 sc, (2 sc, inc) x3,
7 sc, inc, slst in first st, [34]
Rnd 5: ch 1, sc* in the space (using the post
of stitch) between stitches, slst in first st, [34]
*Insert your hook from back to front
through the space between the single
crochet stitches. Yarn over,
complete the single crochet as usual.

Rnd 6-9: ch 1, 34 sc, slst in first [34], 4
rounds
Rnd 10: ch 1, 13 sc, 6 dec, 9 sc, slst in first st
[28]
Rnd 11: ch 1, 12 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc [24]
Rnd 12: FLO (use only front loops): slst in
each stitch, [24]
• make sure the slip stitch loose.
Don’t replace your stitch marker.
How to Invisible Fasten off:
Using a needle, insert it in both loops of the
second stitch after the last stitch
Then, insert it only in the back loop of the
last stitch. Secure the yarn and use
the remaining yarn tail for sewing.

Sock:
Attach white yarn in the first back loop of
round 12
Rnd 13: ch 1, sc in this loop, sc in next 23
back loops, slst in first st, [24]
Rnd 14: ch 1, (dec, 2 sc) x6, slst in first st
[18]
Rnd 15: ch 1, (dec, sc) x6, slst in first st [12]
Rnd 16: ch 1, FLO (use only front loops):
(3 sc in next st) x12, [24]
Invisibly Fasten off.
Stuff the shoe and sock firmly

Leg:
Attach light brown yarn in the first back
loop of round 15
Rnd 17: ch 1, sc in this loop, sc in next 11
back loops, [12]
Rnd 18-38: sc around [12], 21 rounds
Crochet 4 sc extra, after round 38 to bring
the yarn to the corner.
Cut the yarn, leave a tail for sewing.
• tip: stuff the legs only at the beginning
lightly
Sew the legs to body in the line of the magic
ring

DRESS
Use red (131) yarn.
Ch 37. Make sure that your chain is not
twisted.
Row 1: start in second chain from hook: 36
sc, turn [36]
Row 2: ch 1 (don’t count it as the first st), 6 sc,
inc, 5 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 6 sc, turn
[40]
Row 3: ch 1, (6 sc, inc) x2, 11 sc, inc, 6 sc,
inc, 7 sc, turn [44]
Row 4: ch 1, (7 sc, inc) x2, 12 sc, (inc, 7 sc)
x2, turn [48]
Row 5: ch 1, 7 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 13 sc, (inc, 8
sc) x2, turn, [52]

Row 6: ch 1, 8 sc, ch 5, leave 11 st (for first
arm), insert your hook in next st, 14
sc, ch 5, leave 11 st (second arm) and crchet
in next st, 8 sc, turn, [40]
Row 7: ch 1, 40 sc, turn [40]
Row 8: ch 1, (4 sc, inc) x8, turn [48]
Row 9: ch 1, 48 sc, change the yarn
to red, slst in first stitch [48]
Now our two sides of the dress are
connected and we will continue to crochet
in the round.
Row 10: ch 1, work in back ridge loops: (inc, sc) x24, slst in first st,[72]

Row 11-18: ch 1, 72 sc, slst in first st [72], 8
rows
Row 19: ch 1, (8 sc, inc) x8, slst in first st
[80]
Row 20-26: ch 1, 80 sc, slst in first st,
[80], 7 rows
Row 27: ch 1, red yarn: 2 sc, attach the
white yarn, (white yarn: 2 sc, red yarn: sc,
white yarn: 2 sc, red yarn: 3 sc) x9, white
yarn: 2 sc, red yarn: sc, white yarn: 2 sc, red
yarn: sc, slst in first st, [80]

Row 28: ch 1, red yarn: 3 sc, (white yarn: 4
sc, red yarn: 4 sc) x9, white yarn: 4 sc, red
yarn: sc, slst in first st, [80]
Row 29: ch 1, red yarn: 4 sc, (white yarn: 2
sc, red yarn: 6 sc) x9, white yarn: 2 sc, red
yarn: 2 sc, slst in first st [80]
Cut the white yarn and continue your
crocheting with red yarn.

Row 30: ch 1, 80 sc, slst in first st [80]
Row 31: ch 1, 80 sc,, change the
yarn to white, slst in first st [80]
Row 32: white yarn: ch 1, 80 sc, change the
yarn to red, slst in first st [80]
Row 33: red yarn: ch 1, sc* in the space
between stitches [80]
Fasten off

Collar: lay the dress so that the bottom is at
the top and away from your face. Attach the
red yarn in stitch of first row, ch 4,
skip next stitch, slst in next st
Repeat it (ch 4, skip next st, slst in next st)
16 times more

Button: 7 sc in magic ring [7]
Invisibly fasten off.
Sew the button on the front of the dress.
Sew the small button on the back side of the
dress and make a little loop

BOW
Use red (131) yarn.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: sc around [6]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x3 [9]
Rnd 4: sc around [9]
Rnd 5: (2 sc, inc) x3 [12]
Rnd 6-7: sc around [12], 2 rounds
Rnd 8: (dec, 2 sc) x3 [9]
Rnd 9: (dec, sc) x3 [6]
Rnd 10: (sc, inc) x3 [9]
Rnd 11: (2 sc, inc) x3 [12]
Rnd 12-13: sc around [12], 2 rounds
Rnd 14: (dec, 2 sc) x3 [9]
Rnd 15: sc around [9]
Rnd 16: (dec, sc) x3 [6]
Don’t stuff the bow.
Invisible fasten off

White small bow: ch 20, join with slst in first
chain st.
Cut the yarn, leave a long tail.
Wrap the tail around the bow as show on
photo 39. Then lay the white small bow on
the red bow and wrap the tail around to
secure two bows together. Make
3 knots, cut the tails and hide them in red
bow.
Lace: ch 70. Fasten off.
Pull the lace through the bow as show on

More Amigurumi Bear İdeas

Materials
• YARN : white and orange ( I used microfibre acrylic, You can use any yarn that youfindsuitable) ,
• CROCHET HOOK :2mm or 1,85mm
• FIBERFILL
• YARN NEEDLES
• SAFETYEYES SIZE 6mm

Abbreviations
• MR :magic ring
• SC :single crochet
• DC : double crochet
• INC :increase (2 single crochet in 1 stitch)
• DEC :decrease (invisible decrease )
• BLO :back loop only
• SS :slip stitch
• ST : stitch

Legs (Make 2)
R 01: 5sc in MR (7)
R 02: (1sc, inc) x2, 1sc (7)
R 03: (2sc, inc) x2, 1sc (9)
R 04/06: 9 sc(9)
Cut the yarn off the first leg
Don’t cut the yarn for the 2nd one , we will be making the body starting from there
Stuff the legs well before the next step

Body and Head
Starting from where we finished in the 2nd leg : chain one and
join the legs
R 01: (1sc, inc) *4, 3sc (inc;1sc) *4, 1sc (28)
R 02: (inc, 2sc) 9, inc (38)
R 03/9: 38 sc(38)
R 10: (dec, 2sc)9 , dec (28)
R 11/12: 28sc (28)
R 13: (dec, 1sc)9 , 1sc (19)
R 14 : dec, 17sc (18)
Stuff as you go
R 15 : (2sc , inc)6 (24)
R 16 : (3sc , inc)6 (30)
R 17 : (4sc , inc)6 (36)
R 18 : (5sc , inc)*6 (42)

R 19 : 8sc ; (inc, 1sc)3 , 15sc , (inc, 1sc)3 , 7sc (48)
R 20/22 : 48sc (48)
R23 : 8sc ; (dec , 1sc)3 , 15sc , (dec , 1sc)3 , 7sc (42)
R 24/25 : 42sc (42)
R26 : (5sc , dec)6 (36)
R27 : 36sc (36)
Insert safety eyes between rounds 19 and 20, 8 stitches apart
R28 : (4sc , dec)6 (30)
R29 : 30sc (30)
R30 : (3sc , dec)6 (24)
R31 : (2sc , dec)6 (18)
R32 : (1sc , dec)*6 (12)
R33 : 6 dec (6)
Cut the yarn and hide it inside the head
Embroider the nose as it appears in the pictures (use white yarn or white sewing thread)

Arms (Make 2)
R 01: 5sc in MR (7)
R 02: (1sc, inc) x2, 1sc (7)
R 03: (2sc, inc) x2, 1sc (9)
R 04/08: 9 sc(9)
Don’t stuff the arms
Leave a long tail for sewing

Ears (Make 2)
R01 : 6sc in mr (6)
R02 : 6 inc(12)
R03 : 12sc (12)
Cut the yarn and hide it inside the ear
Don’t stuff the ears

Scarf
Chain 45 and start from the 2nd chain from the hook
R01 : 44sc (44)
Cut the yarn and hide it inside the scarf

Hat
Chain 16 and start from the 2nd chain from the hook
R 01: 15 sc (15)
R 02: 15sc BLO (15)
R 03: 15 dc BLO (15)
R 04: 15 dc BLO (15)
Repeat the 4 rows 6 times and leave a long tail for sewing
Fold you crocheted piece in half and sew the ends together
Pass the tail inside the holes on the side on the piece and pull it tight
until you get a small hole then sew the hole with a needle

Stem
R01 : 6sc in mr (6)
R02/5 : 6 sc (6)
Leave a long tail for sewing

More Amigurumi Bear İdeas

Materials
– Hook: 3.5 mm
– Yarn: Worsted Weight: Approx. 100 yards-fur colour of your choosing, Red, White, Brown, Black, small amount of beige (I used Impeccable by Loops and Threads)
– 8 mm Safety Eyes or Embroidered Eyes
– Brown Embroidery Thread (or thin brown yarn)
– Polyfill
– Needle
– Optional: Stitch Markers and Pins, buttons, decorative embroidery thread, ribbon, decorative buttons

Abbreviations
MR – Magic Ring
CH – Chain
SC – Single Crochet
SL ST – Slip Stitch
INC SC – Increase Single Crochet-make 2 single crochet into 1 stitch
INC HDC – Increase Half Double Crochet-make 2 half double crochet into 1 stitch
INC DC – Increase Double Crochet-make 2 double crochet into 1 stitch
INV DEC – Invisible Decrease
FLO – Front Loop Only
BLO – Back Loop Only
() x… – Repeat everthing within the brackets
FO – Fasten Off

Amigurumi bear free pattern

Other Notes:
Magic Ring alternative- If you do not feel comfortable doing a magic ring, you can also chain 2 and work the indicated number of stitches into the first chain.

Continuous Rounds– All components are worked in continuous rounds.

Straight Lines– To make a cleaner line for the black belt and red base of the shirt for the bear, the first round after each colour change is a round of slip stitches, followed by a round of SC in the back loop only.

3DC BOB– *YO, insert hook into next stitch, YO, pull through stitch. YO, pull through 2 loops on hook.* repeat 2 times more, YO, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Colour Change– When changing from one colour to another, in your final SC stitch after you have 2 loops on your hook, pull through with your new colour.

Muzzle
In beige colour yarn:
R1: 7 SC into MR (7 st)
SL ST to first stitch, FO and leave yarn tail for sewing on later. To make the nose, run brown embroidery thread out through the centre of the muzzle and back through again several times, forming a triangle, then run the embroidery thread out from one top corner to the other of the nose.  Use the embroidery thread to then make a mouth from the centre of the muzzle downwards. See photo for more guidance.

Head
In fur colour yarn:
R1: 6 SC into MR (6 st)
R2: INC SC around (12 st)
R3: (SC, INC SC) x6 (18 st)
R4: (2 SC, INC SC) x6 (24 st)
R5-9: SC around (24 st)
R10: (2 SC, INV DEC) x6 (18 st)
Place 8 mm eyes between R6 and 7, 5 st apart, or in a position you like. Make sure there is enough room between them for your muzzle, which you will attach later. Once you are happy with the distance between the eyes, add washers to the back.
Start stuffing, and continue throughout.
R11: (SC, INV DEC) x6 (12 st)
R12: (4 SC, INV DEC) x2 (10 st)
FO, and finish stuffing, weaving in the ends.
Take the muzzle and pin in place. The bear pictured has his muzzle placed between R7 and 10. Using a needle and yarn tail, sew the muzzle in place. Weave in the ends.

Ears (make 2)
Using fur colour yarn:
R1: 5 SC into MR (5 st)
R2: INC SC around (10 st)
R3: SC around (10 st)
FO, leaving long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten ears with the yarn tail at one end. Curve the ears slightly and pin to the head, starting about 2 stitches down from the top. Sew in place with a needle and weave in the ends.

Body
In fur colour yarn:
R1: 5 SC into MR (5 st)
R2:  INC SC x 5 (10 st)
R3: (SC, INC SC) x5 (15 st)
R4: (2SC, INC) x5 (20 st)
Switch to black yarn
R5: SL ST around (20 st)
R6: In BLO, SC around (20 st)
Switch to red yarn
R7: SL ST around (20 st)
R8: In BLO, SC around (20 st)
R9: SC around (20 st)
Start to stuff and continue stuffing throughout
R10: (2 SC, INV DEC) x5 (15 st)
R11: (SC, INV DEC) x5 (10 st)
FO and leave a long tail for sewing. Finish stuffing. Position the body with the colour changes at the back and sew the top of the body to the base of the head and weave in the ends.

Arms (make 2)
Each arm is made in 2 parts- the upper arm, then the hand. These are then sewn together and attached to the side of the body.
In red colour yarn:
R1: 6 SC into MR (6 st)
R2: In BLO, SC around (6 st)
R3: SC around (6 st)
R4: (2 SC, INC SC) x2 (8 st)
SL ST to the first stitch and FO, leaving a long tail. Attach to a needle and weave the yarn back through the arm, coming out at one side between R1 and R2. You will later use this tail to attach to the body.
To make the hands, in fur colour yarn:
R1: 4 SC in MR (4 st)
R2: SC around (4 st)
SL ST to the first stitch, and finish off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Take a small amount of stuffing and stuff the arms, then place the hands you just made inside the arms, so they peek out slightly. Using a needle and the leftover yarn tail, sew the hands in place on the inside of the arms. Weave in the ends.
Next, pin the arms in a position you like on either side of the body of the bear, and sew the arms in place. You can give the arms more room for movement by only sewing at the corners of the arms, or place several stitches down several rows of the arm to attach it firmly to the body.

Legs (make 2)
Due to different tensions, when you finish your bear legs, you may need to add or take away a stitch or two so the last stitch lines up vertically with the back of the heel of your bear. Make a note after doing the first leg if you had to add or remove any stitches, so both legs are even. This will ensure that when sewn to the sides of the body they flop out at the same angle.
The foot of the leg is constructed by working initially around a starting chain, first the top then the bottom. Afterwards, it spirals in continuous rounds.
In fur colour yarn:
R1: CH 4. SC in 2^nd CH from hook and the following CH. INC 3 SC in last CH. Working on the other side of the chain, SC, INC SC (8 st)
R2: (INC SC, SC) x4 (12 st)
R3: In the BLO, SC around (12 st)
R4: 2 SC,4 INV DEC, 2 SC (8 st)
R5: 2 SC, INV 3 DEC, 3 SC (6 st)
Start to stuff foot lightly
R6-7, SC around (6 st)
If your last stitch does not line up with the back of the heel of the foot, add or take away stitches so it does so. Pinch the sides of the foot closed and CH 1. Then, 3 SC across through the top of the stitches of both sides of the leg to close it. Finish off leaving a length of yarn. Pin the legs to the base of the body and sew on. Weave in ends.

Tail:
In fur colour:
R1: 6 SC into MR (6 st)
R2: SC around (6 st)
SL ST to first stitch of previous round and FO. Lightly stuff if necessary and pin to the body at the back. Sew the tail in place and weave in ends.

Hat
CH 1 counts as a stitch
A tight SC between each 3 DC BOB will help the bobbles stick out.
In red colour:
R1: 6 SC into MR (6 st)
R2: (2 SC, INC SC) x2 (8 st)
R3: (3 SC, INC SC) x2 (10 st)
R4: SC around (10 st)
R5: (4 SC, INC SC) x2 (12 st)
R6: SC around (12 st)
R7: (5 SC, INC SC) x2 (14 st)
R8: SC around (14 st)
R9 (6 SC, INC SC) x2 (16 st)
R10: (3 SC, INC SC) x4 (20 st)
SL ST to the first st and FO, leaving a yarn tail if you wish to have your santa hat bent over (you’ll come back to do this later), otherwise, weave in the ends.
R11: Now, switch to white yarn, connecting to the hat with a SL ST and CH 1. (3 DC BOB, SC), repeating around the hat, ending on a 3 DC BOB. (20 st)
Connect to the starting CH 1 with a SL ST, and FO, leaving a yarn tail and set aside.

Optional Pom
In white colour yarn:
Wrap your yarn around two fingers, 25-30 times and tie tightly together with a long piece of yarn. Using scissors (the sharper the better!) trim your pom to a size that you like. Attach to a needle and sew through the top of the hat, weaving in the ends.

Hat Construction
Now, if you wish to make your hat bent, with your red yarn tail and a needle, weave up through the hat to around row 8, bend the tip of the hat down and sew through several times to secure it in place. FO and weave in the ends. Pin your hat in a position you like over one of the bear’s ears and sew in place, weaving in the ends.

Christmas Sack
In brown colour yarn:
R1: 6 SC into MR (6 st)
R2: INC SC around (12 st)
R3: (SC, INC SC) x6 (18 st)
R4: (2 SC, INC SC) x6 (24 st)
R5: (3 SC, INC SC) x6 (30 st)
R6: (4 SC, INC SC) x6 (36 st)
R7-16: SC around (36 st)
R17: (SC, CH 1, skip 1 st) x18 (18 SC, 18 CH)
SL ST to first ST and weave in the ends.
Now, take a piece of yarn or ribbon that is an inch or two longer than the distance around the sack opening and weave back and forth through the holes made from the last row. Once you have weaved all the way around the bag, tie to the other end of the yarn/ribbon.

Embellishments
To make your bear and his Christmas sack unique, you may want to add some buttons or embroidery thread! A cute button can look nice on the front of his belt, or some gold thread can be sewn on the front to make a buckle. A festive button, or snowflakes sewn on with embroidery thread really finish off the bag! A nice alternative could also be to use a colourful ribbon to weave in at the top of the bag.

More Amigurumi Bear İdeas

Materials:
Yarn: white, blue, plus blue novelty
yarn for hat trim and pompom & red
and green for stocking
crochet hook
safety eyes
polyfiber fill
dark brown embroidery floss
darning needle
finished size: 51/2 inches

LEGS (make 2)
Round 1: With white, 6 sc in a magic ring.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) around. (18)
Round 4-5: Sc around. (18)
Round 6: (sc2tog) X 4, sc 10. (14)
Round 7: (sc2tog) X 5, sc 4. (9)
Stuff foot lightly.
Round 8-11: Sc around. (9)
Round 12: (2 sc, 1 inc) X3. (12)
Round 13: (1 sc, 1 inc) X 6. (18)
Round 14-15: Sc around. (18)
Round 16: (1 sc, 1 dec) X 6. (12)
Round 17: (sc2tog) X 6. (6)
Break off yarn leaving a long end. Using a
darning needle, thread through all 6 sts. Pull up
tightly and fasten off. Weave in ends.

BODY
Round 1: With white, 6 sc in a magic ring.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) around. (18)
Round 4: (2 sc , 1 inc) around. (24)
Round 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) around. (30)
Round 6-7: Sc around. (30)
Round 8: Join blue and sc around. (30)
Round 9: Working in BLO, sc around. (30)
Round 10-12. Sc around. (30)
Round 13: (3 sc, 1 dec) around. (24)
Round 14: Sc around. (24)
Round 15: (2 sc, 1 dec) around. (18)
Round 16: Sc around. (18)
Round 17: (1 sc, 1 dec) around. (12)
Round 18: Sc around. (12)
FO and stuff firmly.
Join blue yarn at Round 9 and sc around on the
front loops. FO and weave in ends.

SHAPE LOWER BODY
Thread a long length
of yarn onto a darning
needle. Push the needle
right through the lower
body from side to side
at the points where the
legs will be attached. Now
leaving a gap of a few
stitches, run the needle
back through the body a
few stitches away from the
starting point. Pull yarn
end to squash the lower
body so that there are depressions on either
side of the body. Repeat this a few times. Pull
both ends of the yarn tightly and tie together
securely. Thread both ends onto the needle
and lose them inside the body. Attach legs.

HEAD
Round 1: With white, 6 sc in a magic ring.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) around. (18)
Round 4: (2 sc , 1 inc) around. (24)
Round 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) around. (30)
Round 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) around. (36)
Round 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) around. (42)
Round 8: (6 sc, 1 inc) around. (48)
Round 9-15: Sc around. (48)
If you are using safety eyes, insert eyes
between Round 12 and 13.
Round 16: (6 sc, 1 dec) around. (42)
Round 17: (5 sc, 1 dec) around. (36)
Round 18: (4 sc, 1 dec) around. (30)
Round 19: (3 sc, 1 dec) around. (24)
Round 20: (2 sc, 1 dec) around. (18)
Round 21: (1 sc, 1 dec) around. (12)
FO. Stuff firmly.
Embroider nose and eyebrows.

ARMS (make 2)
Round 1: With white, 6 sc in a magic ring.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: (2 sc, 1 inc) X 4. (16)
Round 4: Sc around. (16)
Round 5: (sc2tog) X 6, sc 4. (10)
Round 6: Sc around. (10)
Round 7: Join blue and sc around. (10)
Stuff paws lightly.
Round 8: (1 dec, 3 sc) X 2. (8)
Round 9-14: Sc around.
FO and stuff lightly, leaving upper arm
unstuffed. Sew top opening close and attach to
body.

EARS (make 2)
8 dc in a magic ring. FO.
Attach ears to head and secure head to body

HAT
Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring.
Round 2-5: Sc around. (6)
Round 6: (1 sc, 1 inc) X 3. (9)
Round 7-9: Sc around.
Round 10: (2 sc, 1 inc) X 3. (12)
Round 11-13: Sc around.
Round 14: (3 sc, 1 inc) X 3. (15)
Round 15-17: Sc around.
Round 18: (4 sc, 1 inc) X 3. (18)
Round 19-21: Sc around.
Round 22: (2 sc, 1 inc) X 6. (24)
Round 23-25: Sc around.
Round 26: (3 sc, 1 inc) X 6. (30)
Round 27-28: Sc around.
Round 29: (4 sc, 1 inc) X 6. (36)
Round 30-31: Sc around.
Round 32: (5 sc, 1 inc) X 6. (42)
Round 33-34: Sc around.
Round 35: (6 sc, 1 inc) X 6. (48)
Round 36-37: Sc around.
Round 38: (7 sc, 1 inc) X 6. (54)
Round 39: Sc around.
Round 40: Change to blue novelty yarn and sc
around.
FO and weave in ends.

STOCKING
Round 1: With pink, 8 sc in a magic ring.
Round 2: Inc around. (16)
Round 3-9: Sc around.
Round 10: Join white, sc 8, ch 1, turn.
Round 11-12: Sc 8, ch 1, turn.
Round 13: Sc 8, (fold the sock so that both
vertical edges of the heel meet; then using pink,
join with a sc), sc 4 along the edge of the heel,
sc 8 across the main body, sc 4 along the edge.
Before working on the next round, sew the gap
in the heel.
Round 14-21: Sc around.
Round 22-23: Join contrasting color and sc
around.
FO. Tack stocking to paws with a few stitches.

POMPOM
Wrap yellow yarn around two fingers several
times. Carefully slide the yarn off your fingers
and tie a piece of yarn around the center in a
knot. With a pair of scissors, cut through the
loops on both sides of the pompom. Take your
scissors and trim the pompom into a round
shape using the scissors. Sew on top of the hat.

More Amigurumi Bear İdeas

Size
About 15 cm (6″) tall, when crocheted with DK weight cotton and linen blend (50g = 112) and a 2,50 mm crochet hook (US size 2/C).

Difficulty
2. Beginner – suitable for novice crocheters, includes small details.

You will need

• Yarn. I used DK weight cotton and linen blend, 50g = 112m (50g = 123yd) / 8 ply / 11 wpi. You will need about 12 g of beige and just a few grams of white yarn.
• 2,25 – 3,50 mm crochet hook (US hook size 2/C – 4/E) or according to the yarn. 
• Polyester fiberfill, wool, wadding etc. for stuffing.
• Cotton embroidery floss. 
• 8 mm safety eyes or buttons, beads, felt etc.
• Yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker.

Abbreviations

• mr, sc n = magic ring – crochet n single crochet stitches into the adjustable loop.
• sl st = slip stitch.
• sc = single crochet stitch (double crochet stitch in UK and Australia). 
• sc n = crochet one sc in each of the next n stitches.
• inc = increase – crochet two single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
• dec = decrease – crochet two stitches together using the invisible decrease method. 
• (sc 4, inc) x n = repeat the pattern between parentheses n times. 
• [36] = number of stitches in a round after finishing round.

Notes

• Work in a continuous spiral, do not join rounds or turn your work, unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
• Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round. Move the marker up after completing each round.
• All stitches are worked into both loops, unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.

Head
Round 1: mr, sc 6 = [6] 
Round 2: inc x 6 = [12] 
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 = [18] 
Round 4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 = [24] 
Round 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6 = [30]
Round 6: sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 = [36]
Round 7: (sc 5, inc) x 6 = [42]
Rounds 8-14: sc in each stitch = [42]
Round 15: (sc 5, dec) x 6 = [36]
Attach the safety toy eyes between rounds 12 and 13, leaving 7 stitches (count 6 holes) between them.
Start stuffing the head. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the head firmly.
Round 16: sc, dec, (sc 4, dec) x 5, sc 3 = [30]
Round 17: (sc 3, dec) x 6 = [24]
Round 18: (dec, sc 2) x 6 = [18]
Round 19: (sc, dec) x 6 = [12]
Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Finish stuffing the head.

Muzzle
Round 1: mr, sc 6 = [6] 
Round 2: (inc3 x 2, sc) x 2 = [14] 
Rounds 3-4: sc in each stitch = [14]
Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Sew the muzzle to the head with whip stitch.
Tip! It is difficult to stuff a large open piece. Start pinning the muzzle to the head and add stuffing as you go.

Ears
Round 1: mr, sc 6 = [6] 
Round 2: inc x 6 = [12] 
Rounds 3-4: sc in each stitch = [12]
Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Do not stuff the ears. Flatten the ears and sew them to the head, placing them just below round 3.
Tip! Sew the muzzle and ears to the head and embroider the nose before you sew the head to the body – this way you can fasten all yarn tails securely with a knot under the head.

Body
Round 1: mr, sc 6 = [6] 
Round 2: inc x 6 = [12] 
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 = [18] 
Round 4: (inc, sc 2) x 6 = [24] 
Rounds 5-8: sc in each stitch = [24]
Round 9: (dec, sc 10) x 2 = [22]
Round 10: (sc 3, dec) x 4, sc 2 = [18]
Round 11: sc in each stitch = [18]
Round 12: (dec, sc 7) x 2 = [16]
Round 13: (sc 2, dec) x 4 = [12]
Fasten off and hide the yarn tail. Stuff the body firmly. Sew the head to the body using mattress or whip stitch. Add a bit more stuffing before closing the seam.

Arms (make 2)
Round 1: mr, sc 6 = [6] 
Round 2: (inc, sc) x 3 = [9] 
Rounds 3-5: sc in each stitch = [9]
Round 6: sc 3, dec, sc 4 = [8]
Stuff the hands firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the arms lightly about 2/3 way up.
Rounds 7-8: sc in each stitch = [8]
Round 9: sc 3, dec, sc 3 = [7]
Rounds 10-11: sc in each stitch = [7]
Round 12: sc 3, dec, sc 2 = [6]
Round 13: sc in each stitch = [6]
Round 14: sc 3, flatten the top and crochet over the opening.
Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Sew the arms to the sides of the body, one row below the head.

Legs (make 2)
Round 1: mr, sc 6 = [6] 
Round 2: inc x 6 = [12]
Round 3: sc in each stitch = [12]
Round 4: sc 4, dec, sc 6 = [11]
Round 5: sc in each stitch = [11]
Round 6: sc 4, dec, sc 5 = [10]
Stuff the feet firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the legs lightly.
Rounds 7-8: sc in each stitch = [10]
Round 9: sc 4, dec, sc 4 = [9]
Rounds 10-11: sc in each stitch = [9]
Round 12: sc 4, dec, sc 3 = [8]
Rounds 13-16: sc in each stitch = [8]
Left leg
Round 17: sc 3, flatten the top and crochet over the opening.
Right leg
Round 17: sc 5, flatten the top and crochet over the opening.
Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Sew the legs to the body just above round 3 and more towards the front of the body, leaving 4 – 5 stitches (count 3 – 4 holes) between them.
Finish sewing and hide all yarn tails. And done!

More Amigurumi Bear İdeas